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And your still here... It took you longer to write that than it would take the average person to read the original post - sounds like your the one that has no life... "A bunch of people"... bro there are like 5 individuals total that responded to this (you don't even count), and 2 of them...

Where did I ask which ones is bigger? What do I want to know? Take 15 seconds to actually read the original post and you will find the answer to that. You have offered literally zero valuable input - why are you still here? I hope you don't suck at your day job as much as you do answering...

Obviously my numbers are what I say they are - not sure what your completely useless comment is supposed to be getting at. If you don't want to review the math, ignore the post. Pretty simple... There is a correct way to use simple algebra to arrive at a house's energy needs. Its an objective...

With that mentality then, it doesn't matter what I do, since the future is unknown so why does it matter... I can work with the figures I know now, and make reasonable estimations accordingly. I just want to make sure my approach with how to caucluate this is accurate - hence the reason for the...

I already know that natural gas is going to be much cheaper per month. What I am trying to determine is how long it will take for the NG to pay for itself, since it will cost around $10k for the NG supplier to run a main, etc to connect me. If NG is is significantly cheaper, but it still takes...

Where I am the least confident in my above calculations is: - factoring in the 10 ft ceiling vs currently just using sq ft - factoring in things like attic insulation (having R38 vs, say, R60 and how that would impact BTU requirements)

I am looking for the cheapest per month, with an install that will pay for itself within a reasonable time compared to Propane (since it seems like the baseline at this point)

Hello, We're in the process of a new build and I am trying to determine if it is worth the cost to connect natural gas. I was hoping you could confirm that my process in calculating this is correct. House details: - Location: Western NY - 80'x30' footprint, w/ 10-foot ceilings (2,400 square...

I will try that, but I would think if its backwards, then the water from the main pipe would flow back into the chlorine tank?

Yes - worked great. And then it sat for a few years. I recently attempted to get the sysem working again. It pumps the fluid out of the tank just fine if the line is not in the check valve...

Hello, My pump is model: E20PHG. I recently replaced the plastic check valve that screws in at the point of injection to the main water line. It was working after this, but no longer is. I replaced the white rubber tube that wraps around the roller wheel. The rollers on the wheel look like...

Hello, I installed a chlorination system about 4 years ago, but most of its life it has not been in operation... I recently got it working again, but instead of Chlorine, I bought Neutra Sul (I bought this locally, intending to buy H202, and didn't realize this is what they sold me...). I...

the parts that I believe would be ferrous are: -zone valves? -2 circulator pumps (one for heat, one for indirect) -expansion tank -fast fill valve (may be copper) -spirovent (may be copper) aside from this, everything is either copper, brass, plastic, or stainless...

how do I 'pump' the fernox into the system once it is drained? Given that my boiler has a stainless steel heat exchange, would this be safe from damage? This is really the biggest concern to me...

Basically, I didn't use the PEX with the barrier when I installed a few of the loops in my system, as I was not aware of the issue it solves. It has been like this for 4+ years. Not sure if it makes a difference, but I have a Lochinvar boiler and it has a stainless steel heat exchange. I was...

I don't disagree that water enter and exits the tank. But this is entirely different than it being in the actual flow of the main line. The chlorine pump is activated per the meter at a pulse per gallon. Teeing off the line that goes to the pressure tank would not cause flow through the...

should I also take picture of the pex plumbing as well, just to make sure we're all on the same page with what I am talking about?? Seriously though, I have a main line, and am teeing off of it to a pressure tank. There is no picture required to explain this. Yet when this guy fails to grasp...

LOL No, I'm sorry. I can't explain yet again the same simple description of how this is set up...

There is zero water flowing through it. The water enters the tee as 1" pex and flows out of the tee as 1" pex. the middle leg of the tee goes down to the pressure tank as 3/4" pex...

The other option I have is just before the first 1" tee, there is another 1" tee that branches off to 1/2" and I have this going to a vacuum break. I could move the vacuum break to the 3/4" line going down to the pressure tank, and use the 1/2" tee for the garden hoses...