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Thanks hj; that's what I assumed, but you know what can happen then lol. The pipe I have says 'potable water' and has a yellowish tint, is rated at a higher psi than dmv, and fits std. pvc fittings; I've had this stuff around about 20 yrs.

Want to use some 1 1/2 in pvc water pipe that I had left-over from a previous project. Can I substitute this as a vent on a 2in drain? I realize it's not a good idea to mix these things, but isn't water pipe heavier anyway?

Would the residual glue have to be removed with cleaner before reuse? I've got a 1/2in drill, but woould the rpm matter? It's about 50yrs old and the old girl might not have much left. Thanx

Thanks for the help. I agree, that pasco tool looks like you have to have a steady hand or you could ruin the fitting in no time. I saw a tool similar to what yoy posted; seems the inside pipe diameter helps guide it along. The price for this puppy is around $68, and that was a discounted price...

Thanks for the advise. I need to reuse that hub in order to extend the 4" line about 6ft. to connet a 2" standpipe and a 1 1/2" drain for my laundry tub; I don't think I should have too much trouble with things collecting at the "lip"

Thanks for all the help, didn't mean to cause such a fus; just looking for some friendly advise. you see I had alk my fittings and pipe ready to go and then I found this other info on the problems others have had with possible hub splittings. I think at this point I'll see what happens by using...

Ok thanks for all of the advise, but let me clear-up a few things.These fittings are all 4"-do they make a 4" fitting saver? Secondly, that 4x2x4 wye butts-up to a 4x4x4 wye; you can see the vertical stack going down in bottom part of the photo; what might a 4" pasco fitting saver cost? Why...

Problem is when originally installed, the female hub was butted smack-up against the wye hub leaving no room to cut-off and attach a coupling; the other end of the wye is smack-up against another wye that connedts the main stack; I need to extend this 4" line. Check-out the aerial shot that I...

Sorry hj and diyfun, I ment my reply for hj's original response, but it went to the wrong place. But in reponse to hj's above reply, the clean out is on a female adapter. I was thinking of wrapping a hose clamp around the hub to protect it from the male adapter; shouldn't the male adapter work...

Would this be a problem then if replacing a clean-out plug with a male adapter to extend my 4" drain? I'd have an awfu lot of 4" fittings to replace if I had to start over. Thanks

:)Thanks for everyones advise. It'll be a little close on keeping the right pitch, but everything should fit in fine.

Bump. Would sure appreciate some clarification on the use of AAV's; I was planning on doing this job over the weekend. also is it better to use a cleaner and/or primer on connections? Thanks cacher_chick for the advice on the LT trap; I found just what you mentioned and it will work just fine

I trust the 2in would start at the trap outlet. also you earlier mentioned to run the pipe up through the wall cavity while the floor was open; how much of the floor do I need to open? I was planning on running 7ft. lengths w/couplings and glue as I go.Oh and thanks for the help with the double...

Ok. Thanks Hammerlane. I can certainly fall into that 20ft. limit; I could then connect the 1 1/2in. vents from the LT & CW, run a horizontal line to the wall cavity up to the attic, and connect to the 1 1/2in. vent from the BT that's on the 4in.main. I would still like some clarification on the...

Ok. Thanks. I'll connect the tub to the 1 1/2in IP vent. I could run the vent for the 2in. up the wall cavity where the 4in. main and 1 1/2in. BT vent run up to the attic; the 1 1/2 then connects to the 4in before going out the roof. I have three questions: 1) isn't 1 1/2in adequate for venting...

Ok. I can easily put on a 4 to 2 reducer and use a 1 1/2 x 2 x 1 1/2 santee at the vent. Any thoughts on what type of pipe and fittings to use at the tub?I need something with a tight radius, especially a the deep sink. As per my original photos, there is a 1 1/2in vent near the tub that...

Forgot to mention on my post last night that all the "red" represents what was original, and the "green" is what I need to change. I'm also now thinking that at the end of the 4in. line where the 1 1/2in from the LT connects that a 4 to 1 1/2 reducer would work just as well as the wye plus it...

I've included (3) drawings: one is a general view of what I want to do; I zoomed-in for the other's to show a little more detail of each half. I've included an inset of the LT santee vent because I wasn't certain of the correct orientation to flow. I'll also need some help withe the LT...

Ok.I'll find a way to draw that and repost. The vertical line is only a vent for the old drywell and the kitchen sink; I dont believe it connects above the kitchen sink , because there is a window preventing it from going vert. until it runs horizontal for about 18 in.; the kitchen sink...

These pics should help explain what I'm trying to do. This second pic is the iron pipe 1 1/2" drain from the laundry tub that goes to a old drywell that is actually under the basement floor; it no longer works. The vertical line is the vent tha t goes about 5 ft. up,then turns horizontal for 42...