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Ok. Thanks again to all of you for the comments. For the record, the panel board appears to be fairly new. It's a Murray Catalogue # LC130DC: Model 19 Type 1 enclosure, Type F panelboard with a 100 amp main breaker (service disconnect) inside the panel at the top. It appears to have 30...

The window air conditioner I mentioned is "large" in that it barely fits through the lower sash of my windows, and it's much bigger than the other unit I own. It is "surplus" from my office at work, so I've never hooked it up before. As I mentioned above, I assumed it was a 120V appliance...

Ok. Thanks. It makes sense that the 30 amp circuit can't be connected to a string of gereral use recepticles. I've already removed the RV recepticle because I have no use for it, it looks like crap, it's poorly connected to the wall of my house and it's a haven for yellow jackets. I'll...

Ok, so I (carefully) took the cover off the panel, and the red wire from this cable is definitely not connected to anything. It just hangs straight down all by itself to about 3 inches above the bottom of the panel box and is capped with a wire nut. I re-traced the path of this wire from the...

I plan to take off the panel cover to see if the other end of the red wire is connected to anything. I have a very high degree of respect for electricity, and I generally draw the line at working in (or even touching) the panel. I also triple check wires before I install a light fixture or...

My old house has an RV outlet (NEMA TT-30R) mounted on the outside of an exterior wall. Since I have no use for this, I'd like to remove this recepticle and use the circuit for other purposes. The raised printing on the recepticle says "Travel Trailer Use Only, 30A 125V." In the panel, there...

Thanks, John. I'll check this. Would this cause the boiler to cycle more often?

I have a small old house with a single zone forced hot water heating system. The boiler is a fairly new Dunkirk Empire II oil unit with a coil for hot water. There are two main loops served by one Taco circulator pump. In the basement, I've noticed that the return pipes in ONE of the two...

Well, I was pretty sure the copper loop was air bound, so I put a boiler drain valve followed by a ball valve in the 3/4" copper return line, just before it tees back into the large iron return loop pipe in the basement. Closing the ball valve and opening the drain really let me purge the heck...

Any chance a mixing valve, either the one directly after the coil, or the one in the shower valve itself, is malfunctioning? Does the temperature fluctuate at any of the sinks in the house?

NO flow is right. I tried my best to purge the air, given the two drain/bleeder valve locations I have in the loop. I get a continuous water flow out of the bleeder valve at the end of the fin tube in the second floor bathroom. A tremendous amount of water comes through when I open the small...

McG, Thanks for the response. I'll try to clarify the situation. The 3/4" copper loop begins in the basement where it tees off of a black iron supply line. It then rises to the second floor bathroom where it connects to the 3 ft fin tube. Then it drops back to the basement where it contects...

Probably a dumb question, but do people ever add additional insulation to their boilers? I know people wrap hot water heaters. My basement gets pretty cold in the winter. My small Dunkirk Empire II cast iron oil boiler appears to have a few inches of fiberglass batt inside the sheet metal...

I have a small, two story house with a five-year-old cast iron oil boiler that provides hot water to cast iron radiators. The piping to the radiators is fairly large diameter black iron, which may have originally been steam piping. The house was built in the late 1920s, and it's all one...