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House was built in 1951, all copper drains. I want to move the washer standpipe over about 4-5 feet so I can place the washer on an adjacent wall, which I think is where it was originally. There is a second drain line in the wall, close to where I want to move the washer, that currently is...

My can of pipe dope is white and specifically says it is "safe for gases." And I notice Oatey makes a pipe dope specifically for NG/propane, which is blue (??) Not sure much can be made of the color.

LOL I'm being over-cautious. All my experience with black pipe has been with the standard hanging brackets where there's loads of room to work. This joint runs the pipe flush to the wall, and the only other such joints I've seen used two 90's in place of the two 45's. I though that might be...

The pic shows gas line entering the garage wall, taking a 90 turn, then passing through two 45s to come flush to the wall. It looks and feels sturdy, but I'm wondering if it technically is allowed. Seems to me there's a small chance the two 45's could rotate against each other, loosening one...

Here's a pic of what I'm trying to replace The problem is that the bottom of the fill valve and the end of the horizontal section of the supply line don't line up, and the riser portion is really short, not allowing much room to bend, if its even supposed to be bent at all. But I guess if no...

It was at the main plumbing supplier that I was told no replacement was still made. Not a hardware store. The same people own a large plumbing company next door. I had the part in my hand, and he looked at it, and said he didn't know of a replacement.

I've got a 1950's one-piece toilet, and needed to replace the fill valve. Problem is in duplicating the supply line. There's a half-inch chrome water line coming horizontally through the wall, ending at a chrome toilet valve. From there, a compression fitting on top connects to a short piece of...

That's a good demonstration of its re-formability and resilience. But if it were damaged while being pulled through joists or studs, you either wouldn't know, or wouldn't be able to re-form it without pulling it all out again. And according to Uponor's manual, you cannot fix a gouge or a tear...

Before I decided on Pex, I looked into the causes of Pex failures, and by far the reason was thought to be improper installation, either with crimping the fittings, or damaging the tubing during install. And some leaks in the tubing away from the fittings were thought to be from scratches made...

I'm re-doing parts of the 60 year old plumbing in my house, and decided to go with Uponor/Wirsbo Pex A. But after working with it for a while, it seems nearly impossible to install it without making scratches in it. Even the specially made suspension clips made for PEX can make deep scratches if...