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The condition only arises when it sits for an extended period, like overnight. My theory is that there's enough of a leak before the check valve to allow the water column to drop. The pump starts, the water moves through the system--until the air that has leaked into the pipe reaches the pump...

So overnight the water table goes down a bit because of my running the pump, and when I fire it up in the morning that water column might be 25' rather than 22'... Is that it?

I think that's just a trick of the camera. Input flex pipe is 1"; output is 3/4". Would I still benefit from a ball valve? Would I be able to dial in a sound level?

All things working properly, the water level should be right at the check valve. Unless there's a leak at one of the joints below that point. Or am I missing something? What's dropping in your scenario?

The pump's inlet is 1"

No. Pressure reading stays at 50 psi. Pump stays off until I run the water.

Finished driving and plumbing a shallow well in my basement last Sunday. 1 1/4" galvanized; static water level in pipe is 22' below basement floor; 1 HP Harbor Freight pump; and a very good ($200) sand point. I used a pitcher pump to bring the water up and condition the well a little before...

Okay, time to reveal my ignorance. In a shallow well at rest, with the sandpoint in the aquifer, is the pipe between the check valve and the sandpoint filled with water? (1-1/4" galvanized pipe)

The 27' is to the lowest point of the sandpoint. The water level is at about 21'. Maybe it's just me, but I was not able to get the pipes to butt together in the couplings. But I was wondering if I might be able to use ordinary couplings, since it shouldn't take as much force to drive the...

27' deep sandpoint well, 1.25 galvanized, hand-driven through gravel. I believe I have one or more leaks below ground and maybe a bad point, so I've decided to pull the well and re-do. My plan is to simply disassemble pipe and couplings as I pull it, then reassemble using the same parts. I'd...

It's a Pacific Hydrostar 3/4 HP, 1" cast iron shallow well pump, model 2955.

Here are the specs: Hand-driven sandpoint, 1.25" galvanized pipe 27' deep, aquifer at around 21', 3/4 hp jet pump. Put into service early this spring. The system seemed to work okay, though it had a rather meagre output of around 5.5 GPM (posted about that here...

Thanks. I decided to run it as-is this summer and see how it works out. Thanks for your advice. Beermaestro

Stopped by a local well driller's shop this morning. He thinks I've got a busted sandpoint based on two things: 1) I'm only getting 5.5 gpm, and 2) when I developed the well, I had a cup or so of gravel come out of the well. Some up it a 1/4" in diameter. He thinks the bubbles I'm getting are...

Just drove a shallow well in my basement. 1 1/4" galvanized. Hit water at 20'-21', continued to about 27'. Developed the well with a hose run down to the end of the pipe. Used a pitcher pump to bring the water up to the check valve, then hooked up to a cheap 3/4 hp pump/tank combination. Besides...