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Let me rephrase that then. If you can get a permit without a detailed drawing get the permit and make a detailed drawing and submit it to the inspector. If you can't get the permit first make the detailed drawing and submit it. If it is rejected they will need to tell you why. Fix what they...

While I have gotten good advice from the board I have found the best advice I have gotten is from the person who will be doing the inspection. If you are getting it inspected get a detailed enough drawing of exactly what you plan to do and contact the inspector. In my case the guy was very...

@Jim...the issue with the repair couplings isn't the speed at which you work, but the fact that you don't get good solvent coverage as you are only applying it to the pipe and sliding the coupler tends to "squeegy" the solvent. I'm sure it is done all the time, but seems like everywhere I see...

These are grey cpvc...not pvc. You can find them several places. Try grainger and you will find a host of schedule 80 cpvc that is grey.

The compression repair fitting is a different animal than the shark bites. A repair coupling can be made from a regular coupling by removing the stop, but from all I have read most plumbers avoid them like the plague. If the pipes were in a more accessible location I might try it.

I have only seen those slip couplings for pvc. They are slick. I came across a video where a guy was specifically using it to repair an underground pvc pipe that had broken.

All suggestions are welcome. On the 3/4" line for the hot water I had used 2 unions as that was easiest to place the tee exactly where it needed to be as well as connecting the branch line. For the 1" line I had looked around for 1" unions, but the only ones I can find are the grey schedule 80...

I guess sometimes I just find myself trying to pound the square peg into the round hole and it just doesn't seem to fit.

That is why they pay you the big bucks. Thanks for the suggestion.

It would require removing straps along a 20' section or so of run, would require messing with a bit of insulation, and in some places it is just a pain to get to the straps. Any other options or is this what really should be done?

What would be the preferred method to add a tee to an existing line where movement in the line is restricted? So essentially putting a tee into a rigid line.

Thought I would post an update. So many threads I come across on this forum come to an unnatural end. Talked with the inspector this morning as far as what I could do and what was needed for testing. Much simpler than I had been planning on. Looking back I had left out the fact that the vent...

Thanks guys. I am in the process of contacting the inspector and am hoping to go with my original option 2. A local plumber I talked to said the inspectors routinely allow 2" drain through non-bearing 2x4 walls without even using reinforcement like stud shoes. Go figure. May as well just...

Can someone throw me a bone here. Is putting a test tee on either side of where the new vent section connects reasonable? For threaded test tee's do you just put a normal plug in them once you are done? Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.

I guess 60% is close enough to 60.7%. Seems like times I have looked around at plumbing in open walls rarely do I see the holes exactly on center which would be required for a 2 1/8". Anyhow. Any comments/suggestions on the proper setup needed for pressure testing?

I own a house that was built in the 60's from lumber that was milled on site and the 2x4 studs are 2" x 4" . I don't know where my brain is at. I was thinking actual was 1/4" less than nominal. That being the case then I don't see how drilling a 2 1/8" hole would be legal since 60% of 3.5" is...

So 2" can't be run horizontal through non-bearing 2x4 since max would be 2 1/4" hole (0.6 * 3.75 = 2.25). A few more questions for you folks if you would indulge. Reading alot but haven't yet got a clear picture of how I would test my particular situation. That and my complete ignorance on...

I thought the drain needed to be 2" up until you attached the trap fittings? Also the wall is 2x4 so can't do #2. Have another option now. Was avoiding it as the crawl space gets cramped in that area as the house sits on a little bit of a hill. Going to come up from the crawlspace with a 2"...

So option 1 is the only option I guess. So is that design ok using a 2" double fixture cross and expanding from the 1.5" existing drain to 2" at the fixture? Also is a cleanout required as the photos from this site I have been basing the design off of do not have cleanouts. If I haven't said...

Just for full disclosure I'm in Renton. The room it is going in is the laundry room. The sink to be used will be ~ 20"x17" and be somewhere between 8-10" deep.