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I defer to your superior knowledge! However, I know Foam It Green just came out with an open cell foam (I'm on their mailing list) that is probably a bit cheaper. Depending on the application that might be an option. The slow-rise would scare me, too, but I don't know much about it. If it...

Thanks guys. This drain was just loose in the store - kind of a frenzied close out situation. It was Expo Design, which closed, so maybe I'll take it down to Home Depot and see if they can figure out what it is. Terry - there is another gasket which I placed on the other side of the sink...

Yes, it is the best website. For about the same money that's prolly why I went with them. I also talked to them on the phone about some questions as my particular situation was a little unusual. They seemed to know what they were talking about re condensation issues and so on. Good Luck!

Jerome - I wasn't referring to teflon tape at the gasket. Look at the photo and you can see a drop of water on the pipe just where the threads turn into smooth pipe. At this point the smooth pipe actually screws into the threads above it. That droplet of water came out of there, not from...

Please look at the attached pic. I've got a stainless sink drain or whatever the correct term is on a new sink. The drain comes in two parts which screw together right below the threads visible in the photo. You can see a drop of water leaking through where it is screwed together. I got this...

A little late, but... I had my whole house (new construction) done professionally in closed cell foam, except for one lower level room. Since I had seen how it was done in the rest of the house I was comfortable doing that last room myself. I used Foam It Green instead of Tiger Foam. They...

It turns out the floor is pretty level so I didn't need the shims. The double wax ring seems to have worked. Thanks for the tips, Jim.

Oops. Nevermind. I found another post asking the same question. It seems to me that grout would work well, and would act as a shim, but it would be difficult to remove the toilet without cracking it in the future. If the floor isn't quite level and I need to shim the toilet, is there anything...

OK, hopefully my last dumb question. The ring package says to apply an inch high layer of plumber's putty all around the perimeter of the toilet before placing the toilet on the floor. This sounded like an awful lot of putty. Plus, the toilet at my store has no putty at all. It was grouted...

OK, great. I kind of like the idea of a thicker wax ring if I can find one thick enough. But, I'll check into the waxless ones as well. Thanks for letting me know my options!

OK, so I'll look for a flange extender and/or the horn. Is the horn a wax ring with a kind of plastic guard around it, that slips down into the flange? I'm not sure if that's what you are referring to. I ask because I'm not confident anybody at Home Depot will know what I'm talking about.

This is a question about the toilet flange: I've pretty much completed the tile work in the bathroom, and need to start looking at putting a toilet in. Since I tiled over the existing floor with a thin tile, I'm ony about a 1/2 inch higher than the floor was originally. The ring is a little...

It is a lead pipe with a metal flange around it. I cleaned out the grooves of the flange and was able to remove the rusted bolt so at least the flange seems OK structurally. It is tight against the pipe and floor on the right side in the picture, and only moves a little if you tap a chisel...

I'm not sure what you mean by access. The flange is currently flush with the old floor, and there is a small gap between the flange and the mud/tile. It's a little beat up looking, but the pipe looks to be sound. I like the idea of bolting something like a new flange to the existing one if...

Thank you for the discussion. I think I've got what I need to do it right. Prolly my next post will be on installing the toilet. I am going to tile over the existing floor, so the toilet flange will be a little low. I assume the bolts will be long enough to tighten down the new toilet and...

It makes sense that the bracket installation is only as strong as the toggle bolts. However, it would seem to me that if you put something solid like washers or a 2x4 behind the bracket, it gives something strong for the bracket to tighten up against. If nothing solid were there other than...

Washers! Beautiful... so much easier. One point of clarification, though. The back end of the toggle is obviously going to spring out and latch against the back of the cinderblock. The front end of the toggle bolt is going through a metal bracket, which is a plate about 6" long and 3" high...

Hi! This is my first post here. I've spent a lot of time at johnbridge for tile work, and I see that site mentioned here often, so I'm sure this is a good resource as well. Here's my issue: I'm redoing a half bath and need to mount a massive porcelain sink to the wall. The sink was made...