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I used a 3.5" hole saw, just big enough for the trim screws to fit.

Thanks SHR. I have plenty of room to swing it into position since the end wall opposite the valve is open right now. I plan to build the wall after getting the tub set in place. The accord I bought came with clips that attach to the tub, they are removable for test fitting. I bought the unit...

Wall is not open on the back side and no access panel. I'd rather not move everything back an inch or so. I think I can get it to work by attaching the end wall to the back wall first then set into place on the tub. Its tough doing it without help. It works when I test fit them without the...

I'm installing my first bath tub and surround using the Sterling Accord after seeing Terry's info about them https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?55937-Installing-Sterling-Accord-tub-shower-kits&highlight=accord. Everything was going smooth until I was test fitting the surround. When...

I hope to get some feedback on what I plan to do. I've been getting rid of popcorn ceilings in my house room by room. The popcorn came off very easily due to wallpaper and paint on the ceilings before the popcorn was applied. The problem is that I'm left with seams every 2 feet or so and I...

Its been almost a year since I installed a CST744EL and am still happy with it. Never clogged, always cleared with 1 flush. Only thing I don't like is some skidmarks. Next time I'll probably get the CEFIONTECT and maybe 1.6 vs 1.28.

I just had a 3+ car garage built in PA, 26' X 40'. It came without electric, insulation, or interior wall coverings. It has 3 bay doors, 3 windows, and 1 regular door. Poured concrete footers below frost line, block walls to about 8" above floor, 4" concrete slab then 2X6 framing. Some...

I'll have to take another look at it, I didn't see Dow on it. It is blue with Lowe's logo, I'm sure someone made it for them. Actually here's a link to...

You may have already answered my next question. I bought some XPS at Lowe's and noticed a thin clear film on both sides and was wondering if I should remove it. If it is like the pink stuff discussed above I should just leave it on then?

Thanks for the info Dana. I agree that it would be a crime to not insulate at this point but the more I read about this stuff the more worried I got about mold. Another issue I'd like to avoid would limit the total thickness between block wall and drywall to 3/4". If I go beyond that I'll run...

Thanks, thats a lot of info to digest, I need to read it a few times. To answer some of your questions: I don't think there is a gap between the brick and block, I'll see if I can find out for sure. The wall I'm working on right now has the floor and ceiling joists running parallel to the...

Anyone use these Dow insulation boards for interior walls? I'm thinking about using them in my place. 60 year old Pennsylvania house, exterior brick face over blocks. Currently no interior insulation between block wall and drywall, just 3/4" wood strips between drywall and block. I'm...

I searched but didn't find what I'm looking for. My current sump pump is a 1/3 HP Century pedestal and looks to be very old. With snow melting and some recent rain the pump is running more often. I've only been in this house 6 months and don't have much experience with sump pumps. The pump...

OK, a little background first. House was built in 1942, I have been here for 20 yrs with no issues. I doubt its vented properly to begin with but haven't had an issue until now. Upstairs toilet drain makes 90 degree turn then runs along floor to outside wall, sink and tub drains connect to...

I have reason to believe that the vent to my main sewer drain may be obstructed. The vent is about a 1.5" metal pipe that comes off the drain, thru the outside wall and up along the house. It is about 20' long. I don't have a snake but I do have about 30' of 1/4" cable that I could run down...

I noticed there is an old wire connected to the main water pipes on either side of the meter. What is its purpose, continuity for grounding electrical? Meter body looks like its metal. Its ugly and I'd remove it if not necessary, or replace with new wire. Thanks.

Expansion tank now installed. Still 53 psi before water heater turned on. Turned heater on to hottest setting and 30 min later pressure never went above 60. Everything looking good now.

Replaced the pressure reducing valve last night, it was preset to 50 psi. Took my chances and got it from home depot. I did open the box and look it over first, the first one I looked at had one of the screws sticking up about 1/4" so I picked a different one. Now I measure 53 at the water...

Ok I got a test gauge and it peaked at 155 psi with water heater off, T&P valve started dripping at 150 like its supposed to do. Now that I think of it the heater started leaking after I replaced a toilet that had a leaking flapper, that was probably keeping the pressure below 150. So the PRV...

That is what I suspect but would like to test before installing a tank. I also suspect that the old heater had a bad T&P valve since it didn't drip.