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As I said, I went out of my way to avoid big box store, I made this purchase at my local plumbing supply store. The R10000 rough-in was separate, the rest of trim including spout and shower head were part of T17430.

I'm in the process of installing R10000 as well. I have read online discussions regarding big box stores selling lesser quality valves with plastic parts. Decided to not take a chance and went to local plumbing supply outfit and purchased the T17430 trim kit. Brought it home, opened it up, and...

Folks, Delta R10000 installation instructions indicate to leave plastic screen in place during soldering, but to "avoid high temperatures" since it may damage screen!? Any idea why they want you to leave screen on, then have to worry about using too much heat? I see photos online of...

Barry, Thanks for the input. After sleeping on it here is what I think I am going to do. Home Depot has an oak "hobby board" that is exactly 1/2" thick. I'll use this behind valve and mount it to studs with corner shelving brackets. Since this is a hardwood, 1/2" wood screws should provide...

I will have about 1/2" between drywall and back of valve. These are the choices that I can think of: 1 - Don't bother with stringer behind valve, let it be supported by copper tubing. 2 - Make a sheet metal stringer. 3 - Remove bracket assembly from back of valve (2 screws), flatten it out, put...

Thanks Barry, I know I can make the 2 3/4" if I avoid mounting the back of the valve to a stringer. The valve would be "floating" with its back up against drywall of adjacent room. Is it ok to do this and rely on straps on copper tubing for physical support?

I am replacing old three handle tub/shower valve with new single handle unit. I am looking at using the Delta R10000 valve body. However my wall studs are 2x3 so I only have 2 1/2 inches of wall cavity depth. Not enough for normal stringer I don't think. How is this normally handled? Thanks,

hj you're the man! That is what I get for pulling dimensions from some website vs. walking into Ferguson's with a tape measure. I think I am ok now, but do you know if there is any requirement for how much nipple, if any, needs to be visible between fittings for inspection? Thanks again

Here are photos

Terry, I have 2" of pipe to work with. Coupling is 2 1/2" long. I would have very short nipples, the trap elbow would be almost kissing the coupling (see hand sketch). Is this ok or does some nipple need to be visible for inspection? What I would really like is a male/female coupling (0 degree...

I'm putting in a new tub and I need to extend the length of the PVC drain pipe shown in photo by 1/2 inch in order for trap to line up properly with overflow tube. Is there a clean way to do this without cutting open plywood farther back and replacing a larger section? Thanks

HJ, Sorry man, I meant 1/2". I originally calculated incorrectly for 1". Thanks for allaying my concerns. Just curious though, Terry's earlier post indicated that the UPC code talks about expansion on hot water lines. If I have a 10 foot hot water line whose temp can go from 50F to 130F...

Rechecked my figures using another reference (Copper Tube Handbook) and realized that I had calculated for 1" pipe (dammit). For 1/4" pipe the required offset length is only 8" for a 20' pipe with 20 degree temp delta). This is now very doable for me and complies with requirement for support...

HJ, My calculated expansion is not 19", it is 0.082". The reference says that I need a 19" offset in order to accomodate an expansion of 0.082". By offset they mean the distance from the 90 degree fitting at end of long pipe and the next anchor point. In other words this 19" section will be...

Folks, I will be replacing a 20' section of 1/2" Cu that feeds external hose bibb (pinhole leaks). I am concerned about the lack of accomodation for thermal expansion of this long pipe. I looked up some formulas for expansion of copper tubing and how long pipe offset should be to accomodate...