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they will work as intended. the biggest draw back is the cold will have a bit of warm water in it but unless you are wanting a cold glass of water from the tap with no ice it wont really be a problem. if you install a timer or sensors your pump wont come on except when you use hot water so...

i agree it is most likely a wiped joint where the lead of the pipe/trap attaches to a brass piece but i would just remove the lead from around the brass piece and use a shielded coupling to attach the pvc to the brass instead of taking it out of the cast iron hub and then having to lead a piece...

i dont know whaat hj was looking at as it seems to me that the piping is ran the only way it can for optimal room without changing which wall the drain comes out of

you might be able to use a brass compression coupling but i would not install it under concrete. why not just make new threads on the pipe? i do that when the customer doesnt want the cost of a complete new line. you should be able to rent a die and handle

i didnt know they made a clay to pvc shielded coupling, but since it looks as though they do then that is what needs to be used according to the ipc. i to have only ever used the thick rubber couplings to transition from clay to pvc

most areas today do not allow storm water to be drained into the sanitary system especially if there is a seperate storm system, which one of your pics leads me to believe your area has, and if so then you need to run another line for the floor drain since it will essentially be storm water not...

i dont worry about it since insulation for anything other than water lines is not in my job description. i set the tub and let whoever worry about the insulation. on the other hand why couldnt you install the insulation then the tub? unless it is a one piece tub/shower type with the walls the...

there are other types of flanges other than the one john recommended but his is one of the easiest to install but must be fastened to the floor or it will pull loose. you will have to chip out some of the concrete around the toilet riser so the flange can sit flush on the finished floor...

now how would that be code compliant if there is a sink on the floor above draining into that pipe? you can not have a fixture on the floor above draining into the vent of a fixture on the floor below according to all codes i know of. now if you are suggesting the op run over to the sink...

i dont like the looks of that installation as far as the csst goes. looks very unprofessional