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Yes, turning that pulls the latch in. It worked when I had the door open the other night. But isn't working with the door closed. I'll give it another shpritz of silicone lube for luck, and try more push/pull of the door. If I do get it open again, can I disassemble it so I leave the lock...

Now I'm back to the original problem, the reason I was taking it apart in the first place. It won't open. I suspect the latch is stuck in the strike plate and can't be retracted. It's possible some dry weather will shrink the wood a little and give it enough play to get unstuck, but until then...

I got it! I put it back together and it works from both the inside knob and the outside lever. The only thing I'm uncertain about is that the little cylindrical piece (middle of the five pieces) has a notch at one end, and I don't see what that's for. I don't know if it matters which way...

BTW I don't actually use this as a lock. I have a separate deadbolt on this door. I just need the knob to open it from the inside and the handle to open and close it from the outside.

Not a mortise lock. Last picture is the cut-out looking at the inside of the door door. It's a little hard to see. The inside doorknob goes at the bottom. The lever from the outside handle is in the middle. The latch that goes into the doorframe is at the top. Middle picture is the inside of...

I took apart my front door handset / knob and foolishly didn't pay attention to how the pieces went together. Can anyone here help me put it back together? I can post pictures of what I've got. The machanism is fairly old, probably 1940s era.

This is great information. I'll pull out the bills from last winter and see if I can step through this. I'm in southeast Pennsylvania. Looking at the list in Manual J I'd guess at using Willow Grove Naval Air Station. Philly airport is generally a small bit warmer than where I am. I think...

Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant my future need to replace the boiler. The guy said he thinks it will make it through this winter, but I should be prepared that it might need to be replaced. I don't want to be sitting here on a cold day knowing nothing about how to make decisions about it. I know...

OK, this is a good day to let it cool down. I'll do that. I don't want to start a new thread if this info is already here. Is there a document or discussion you can point me to about how to choose a contractor to install a new one? And maybe a "for dummies" guide to help me with what I need to...

Logical! Both pipes are hot, though the one coming directly out of the top of the boiler case is hotter than the one connected to the pump. I guess that means the one to the pump is the return, and it is circulating. I'll force it on again (fairly warm today, with the outdoor temp heading up...

I have an old Weil McLain CGM6Pi Ser. 7 gas-fired boiler, with a Taco 007-F5 circulator pump. It's the beginning of the heating season. I had a technician here 2 days ago because the heat wouldn't come on. The problem was the damper not opening properly. He got that solved, and did an overall...

Thank you. I tried it, but it doesn't seem to work with the size and shape of the hole. But I'll know for next time.

I'm installing a new drain and pop-up on my bathroom sink. The replacement I bought has a part that I'm not sure what to do with. This picture on the Aubuchon Hardware site shows the piece. It's the black gasket (?) below the flange, that sort of cups upward. It's a separate piece from the large...

I want to replace a Moen pushbutton diverter model # 1198. It's recessed, and I'm thinking of using a socket wrench with a deep socket to remove the old one. Do you think a socket wrench will do the job, and can you tell me what size socket I will need? Thanks.

red/blue button -- how? Bumping. What's the secret to putting the little red/blue button back into the hole for the set screw? I looks like it should snap in like a snap on a shirt, but i can't get it in. This can't be rocket science -- how does it work? Thanks.

A couple more questions to finish things up, the functional one first, then the aesthetic one: I'm going to have to re-seat the flange of the popup to the bowl of the sink. It is not sealed, and allows water to drain around the flange. The instructions say to use silicone (which I did, but...

update to my previous post I found the set screw, removed the handle, and found the flat spot on the stem. I also found the exploded parts diagram so maybe I can call things by the correct names :o I think the problem is that the alignment of the valve assembly is a tiny bit off. If I...

Ah, good to know it's threaded! I thought it would pop off. The faucet was assembled when I bought it. Once I get that cap off, I'll see if I can adjust. Is the set screw the one behind the red/blue indicator, that looks like I need a little hex wrench for?

couple more little things Thanks for your advice. I got a new washer & gasket, and put things back together. Water runs, water drains, life is good. I have a couple of little questions about the fine-tuning. This is a Delta "Nura" single-handle faucet. 1) How do I remove the trim cap at...

I'm replacing the faucet and pop-up in my bathroom sink. Doing well so far, but I have a question I hope you can help me with. The pop-up assembly is plastic, and the trap is metal (galvanized steel?). How should I connect them? The instructions show a plastic nut and sleeve that don't seem...