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thanks valveman, I'll give them a call. alternatively, is there any reason why a used hotwater tank (15-20 gallon with about the same dimensions as my old galvanized tank) wouldn't do the trick ? (I wouldn't put power to it - just use it as a storage tank) It has a water in and...

noted.. I can't seem to find a Gould or Wellmate tank that is an HP (without a bladder) with the dimensions I need (see tank description in first post). Can anyone recommend/suggest a tank and where I can buy one ?

thanks for the fix idea, but it doesn't answer my question, especially when I eventually go to shop for a replacement tank.

blast from the past. here's what i've got.. 1. Pump: Make: Duro Shallow Well Series: B251 Serial Number: B-23013 2. Motor: Leland 1/4 HP x 1725 R.P.M. 60 Cycle x 1 Phase Type: KS21 Serial Number: FC-10980 3. Tank...

I have a Danze single handle kitchen faucet. It leaks between the bonnet and the faucet body. I received a new ceramic cartridge, installed it, still had leak. Repair kit also included a washer that goes between the faucet arm and the body, but I can't figure out how to get at it ...

they've been used quite extensively in larger apartment buildings etc. because they save water (no flapper leakage) and they don't require the same maintenance level (flapper replacement). I;ve got one installed in my house - they're not bad, but it sometimes takes a couple of "troughs"...

I'm assuming it drains/connects into the outbound sewer main at the street (full city sewers - not into septic) The water level in the first pic is approx 3" below the floor.. So, is this ok ? I poured a quart of water into it, it rose to the top, and eventually returned to the same...

location is Ontario, Canada. And it is in the basement laundry room (washing machine is 3 feet to the right of the picture), and I did take the cover plate off it to get a picture of the water level. Even still, it's all good? right ?

Excuse my green horns.. There is a floor drain in the basement (laundry room), and it seems to maintain a certain level of water in it.. Is it clogged? or would there be a sub-floor (concrete) U pipe that would keep water in it by design (to prevent sewer gas escaping ?)

so, we were away for two weeks on vacation.. i turn the main water supply valve off when we're away from the house that long, just as a precaution. prior to leaving, the subfloor was dry, and i couldn't get the spot to re-appear by wet testing the 3 drain pipes.upon return. hmmm. upon...

Yeah, well I wish the previous owner had done a test prior to pouring the concrete.. Maybe they did, and its since sprung a leak.. dunno. I think, in essence, I've done a 'visual' water test - I'm drying the damp area, and I'm going to wet test all three sources individually. (toilet, shower...

i dunno.. if the drain/discharge pipes are encased/semi-encased in the poured concrete floor, and the pipe has a leak, and the floor has a crack, then its possible. In the picture, all of the discharge/drain flow is from left to right (even though the sink drain source is to the extreme...

thanks for the insight toolaholic, alas, i decided to post on a plumbing forum instead. Anybody else have an idea of what the leak problem might be ?

I have a basement bathroom.. I was putting in some new flooring, and the old vinyl was really moldy on the bottom when I took it out. after drying the bare concrete floor, i noticed there was still a damp spot. I did some wet testing by pouring water into the sink drain and the shower drain...