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Great, much thanks...Stan

That's a nice approach. I was thinking I would have to find a large style of non-fusible disconnect metal box like are used for A/C's. And something like this (appropriately rated/two pole <---Thanks Jim!) would be code-approved by the inspector?

Thanks for a quick response :) Yeah, the new unit is 3500 watts. The breaker is only 20a with #12 wire, so that is about the max I can put in. Well maybe a 3800 watt unit would be borderline OK. That means that without upgrading the circuit to #10 and a new breaker, I'm stuck with 3500w. The...

My 18 year old 30 gallon electric water heater (240v/3500w) now plugs into a wall receptacle served by a 20a double breaker. The water heater just gave up the ghost and started leaking. The replacement is a similar sized/similar powered unit but code now specifies that the connection should be...

Thanks. That's a nice clear statement about no 45's anywhere. Is it also true for 90's? Can 90's be used before the p-trap? Will the San-Tee/AAV combo proposed for after the p-trap be a better choice? Sorry for beating this thing around, I'm just trying to get a pipe-fitting solution versus...

That's some good info and it sounds like a workable solution. I don't have to worry about inspection here, but I do want a reliable drain that won't suck the trap dry :) Are san-tees and aav's available in 1-1/4" sizes? The 1-1/2" drain out has already been fitted (by tile guy w/the...

Thanks for the drawing Redwood. I see how the syphon effect would work on that setup. But what about 45's /before/ the p-trap? Out of the tailpiece to a pair of 45's then down into the p-trap, and level/horiz out to the elbow? Would that be a proper method? There is also the alternative that...

Jim, that was close to what I was first asking: putting a pair of 45's at the outlet coming out of the wall, upstream of the elbow, downstream of the p-trap. Redwood responds that 45's downstream of the p-trap, before the tee, effectively create an s-trap, that I would have to raise the tee...

OK, found the picture of the other side of the lav wall I'm working on. The view here is the bathroom lav plumbing on that other side, the first bathroom that was remodeled 3 months ago. The bottom tee going out to the right is the horiz line that connects to an elbow that goes through the wall...

Hi Redwood. Yup you're right on that, should've fixed it properly before the tile guy did the wainscot wall. Poor planning, I didn't count on the new vanity floor being that much higher than the old one <grrr....>. Figured new vanity going where the old one was so I'd be OK. Anyway: I've...

How high does the AAD have to be? There isn't much height under the lav. The center line of the drain to bottom of lav is about 21".

In this case, raising the drain tee in the wall is not the best solution for me. The walls are newly tiled wainscot. Cutting into it would be too tricky for me; and the other side of the wall doesn't have decent access to the DWV line :( From what you say, I'm guessing that /any/ downslope on...

New vanity in a bathroom remodel has a cabinet floor that is several inches higher than the old vanity floor. It comes to just below the bottom of the drain outlet coming from the wall. Just enough room to run the horizontal trap arm and tighten the slip joint. The DWV is in the wall just beyond...

Yep, I also found similar deals after searching a bit and checking reviews. I tried 1st with a local supply house but the prices were just out of sight for the valve and trim combo. The trim kits at HD and Lowes both included the vlave body but they were still higher than the web prices...

Oh now I understand :) BTW, did you get your 17455 kits locally or online? My T17430 came from an online distributor with free shipping and good pricing.

Oh it's not that big a deal :) I was just initially concerned that my self-install might have been incorrect. Coming from a 1960's style old 2-stem valve to this one was quite a bit different user experience. The new one is much better, but it just worked differently. From some of the comments...

Thanks for the info Ron. At least now I'm sure that my install is "normal" and not frackled :) I have the same/similar problem with the spout splash. How did you adjust the diverter knob up? My spout has a different style diverter Instead of lifting the shower knob, I have a "pull down" diverter.

I actually got this one based on your recommendation :) Not sure though what you think isn't being exact enough about the description of the problem. I'll try again: The volume lever is designed to move only a quarter turn from lock to lock, from closed to open, from full Off to full On...

Ooops! :) vista

Hi Terry, Ahh, OK I understand :) The shower head ouptput is OK, the tub spout is a little slow, but probably correct. It's not so much the volume, it's the lack of volume control <g>. It just seems unusual to have this much "drag" on the opening of the cartridge. Have you seen this before...