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Okay, so they need to attach a T to the drain and then one branch become the intake for the return and the other gets a new stopcock and becomes the new drain, yes? Presumably the originally drain just stays open all the time. I always need to call someone... Water and I don't mix. Phone...

Wait. That third hole is the anode rod, right? So, I need a check valve on the end of the return? Or is there some clever way to get the water to the bottom of the tank other than parasiting off of the cold water feed? -John.

Actually, the original plumbers are no longer welcome in my home. They were very unprofessional when here and refused to acknowledge that they had fried the valves (despite there being clear signs that they could not have done otherwise). There have been some fairly long and heated...

So, should the return be going into the third hole on the top with a dip tube? Is there already a dip tube in there or does the plumber need to install one? Or is there some place on the bottom of the outside of the tank that I can't see?

You are assuming I am brave enough to screw with my own plumbing. I've made too many mistakes in the past... I just want to know what to tell the plumber. I UNDERSTAND plumber, but I tend to have leak problems if I try to change it myself. :-/ Here's a diagram of how the hot (red), cold...

Update... okay, we actually have three problems, it seems, one of which has since been fixed. 1) The installers soldered too close to the top of the tank and fried the valves. Okay, new tank. Let's try again. Yes, hot water! Not as hot as it should be, maybe, but it is a major step in...

Digital camera's at work. I'll see if I can grab it in the morning. What would you like pictures of? -John.

Hello. Last week, we noticed that our water heater was leaking a little around the base. In a rare attempt to be pro-active about such things, and realizing that the thing was at least 12 years old, we had it replaced today. The new WH is the same size as the old one (50 gallon, gas) and...