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That would be ideal. And it is why I want to locate the tank so I can verify it's status and satisfy myself there is no threat of collapse. Hopefully the contractor who made the city connection did this but I have no way to find out without checking the tank. I've cleared most of the area of...

Interesting. A metal tank would fit the timeline between installation and transition to city sewer (that city line is ~4 ft below grade - determined by measurement from cleanout). So by now the tank could be rotted & gone. But then there should be a depression if it rotted out. I don't see...

No well, city water. Yes, I'm looking on downhill side, in line with where existing sewer line is now located. Obviously, the existing line must run to one side of the tank. I also have the original plan, but I found nothing at that location, but only went down 16in. I've been using 5ft...

65 yr old house, originally on septic, but about 50 yrs ago transitioned to city sewer. I want to park vehicles and a heavy RV over the general area of the tank. But how do I find that tank? I've poked around with rebar (maybe did not go deep enough about 12-16") and also cannot find a tank...

Interesting idea. Do you know of a way I can verify that? I'll feel the outlet pipe in the morning before everyone starts using the fixtures. Jon

I'll try it with the cap removed. thanks, Jon

Sorry I didn't explain myself well enough. The return line from furthest fixture-> ball valve->swing check->drain->stop valve->T into heater & bottom drain. I will purge it again, but it's been done several times without solving my problem. I should say that the above mentioned drain & stop...

Thank you. I will try purging again. I have a drain valve installed between the check valve & a stop valve located on the heater side. Is there a reason this would not work as well as a drain on the house side of the check valve?

I've been using a gravity recirc loop (60 ft from tank to last fixture) on my water heater for several years. It worked very well. Bottom of the tank is about 8 ft below the supply & return lines. I had my 18 yr old gas Rudd tank replaced with a new Bradford White M2XR504 and now my recirc...

Thanks, Cookie. I have already had the camera run. There was about 1/2" or less water in some parts but nothing was said to me about that being dips so I don't know what constitutes a 'dip'. Also they were only able to run it to 100 ft, not quite the full length. I am concerned that the...

I need to replace the 4" lateral on my 54 yr old house due to roots. Currently cleaning out every 3 months but sometimes that is not sufficient. Based on common building methods in my area I believe that Orangeburg was used. Originally there was a septic tank that was later replaced with city...

So check valve closest to WH drain. Thanks, HJ. Rgds, Jon

Last time I researched this subject this thread wasn't here. It's been helpful to me. I'm finally ready to install this type of system and have a question. In all the discussions I've read the check valve is installed near the tank. I'd like to know if it would be more/less effective if it is...

Thanks. My install will not run a staight, constant slope. At the final 25% or so of the return I will have at least 2 elbows to drop below an electrical panel and then a 45 to get it to the WH where I plan to connect via the drain valve. Now I understand the recommendation to insulate the...

I want to run a return line in my 55 yr old Ranch style house in order to use the convection circulation to reduce the waiting time for the hot to travel 50 ft to the far bathroom. My water heater (gas) is lower than the water line. If I remove the backflow loop on top of my water heater...

I have several old brass angle valves that leak at the stem packing and where the bonnet fits to the body. I am unable to find a source for a rebuild kit. These valves are 1" & !-1/4", probably made in the 1950's. HL Gee, Buckner, & Thompson are on some of the valves. Goggle hasn't helped...

Interesting. I like that idea but wonder if it will kill the plant and/or tree. Thanks, Jon

This won't work for me. The cleanout is in a crawl space in a very difficult to reach location. Once you get there you have all of 3 inches of clearance. That is why I'm installing a new cleanout in the yard. Thanks, I am not impressed with the 2 "hose clamps" on the Ferncos. I'll go on...

I'm planning on adding an ABS wye into an iron pipe sewer line (lateral) because my present cleanout is no longer accessable. It's 2ft below the surface of a lawn, just outside my foundation. I'm going to use Fernco rubber coupling to make the transitions. I am concerned about roots...

I'd like to thank everyone who replied for the helpful infomation and than Terry Love for hosting such a beneficial forum. Rgds, Jon