Thinktwicez71
New Member
Ok , I figured something was being confused somewhere , I'm glad it wasn't just on my end , I was getting thrown for a loop there haha
Fleck 7000 sxt programming suggestions
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Thinktwicez71
New Member
I don't have lab test reports , just hach 5b for hardness , I doubt I have much iron , I don't really have any discoloration in fixtures or toilets sinks or showers , just very hard water at 42-44 grains per gallon
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Ahh... good. I got confused with somebody with big iron. So that DO thing does not apply to you.
Thinktwicez71
New Member
Just posting an update. Water quality is excellent. No salt taste at all , no smell , water tastes great. Showering is much more enjoyable now , skin feels much smoother and the water is getting that slippery feel .
Cold water is at about 1 ppm or less , water in the beaker is slightly purple , so Maybee a half a drop to get it blue .
My hot water after the softener install went from 44 grains per gallon , to 25 grains per gallon , to 9 , and now is at 3 grains per gallon within 5 days . Thanks for the help , hopefully the water heater gets cleaned out soon and the hot side is at 0-1 as well
42 grains per gallon to 0-1
Cold water is at about 1 ppm or less , water in the beaker is slightly purple , so Maybee a half a drop to get it blue .
My hot water after the softener install went from 44 grains per gallon , to 25 grains per gallon , to 9 , and now is at 3 grains per gallon within 5 days . Thanks for the help , hopefully the water heater gets cleaned out soon and the hot side is at 0-1 as well
42 grains per gallon to 0-1
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Depending on how long that water heater has been exposed to hard water, there could be a substantial buildup of minerals coating the inside. It could take some time for the minerals to dissolve and the hardness subsides to equal the cold supply.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Be aware that the old build up could start to fall of in flakes and can clog aerators in the house. I highly recommend opening he bottom of the water heater and purging it every few days for just a few seconds to get rid of the debris.
WH flushing can be done different ways. The simplest is to
1. Turn off the water, and put the WH in vacation mode, if it has one. Otherwise off.
2. Open a hot water tap to pass air.
3. Drain the WH completely
4. Turn the water supply on fully for a few seconds, and turn off. You are trying to cause turbulence to the bottom of the tank.
5. Do steps 3 and 4 several times. If you have a way to monitor the drained water, you could judge by what you are getting out.
6. Turn the water and WH back on. Close the hot water tap once the air has been expelled and just water is coming out.
1. Turn off the water, and put the WH in vacation mode, if it has one. Otherwise off.
2. Open a hot water tap to pass air.
3. Drain the WH completely
4. Turn the water supply on fully for a few seconds, and turn off. You are trying to cause turbulence to the bottom of the tank.
5. Do steps 3 and 4 several times. If you have a way to monitor the drained water, you could judge by what you are getting out.
6. Turn the water and WH back on. Close the hot water tap once the air has been expelled and just water is coming out.
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Or just cycle the purge valve on and off a few times to get the majority of the debris off the bottom. I would recommend replacing the valve at the bottom of the tank with a good quality ball valve rather than the cheap junk that normally ships with a water heater.
Dont do this unless you have a good plumbing or hardware store nearby and open. Broken or leaking valves at the bottom of the water heater are very common once they are used...
Dont do this unless you have a good plumbing or hardware store nearby and open. Broken or leaking valves at the bottom of the water heater are very common once they are used...
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
There are a variety of good quality ball valves on the market. If replacing the drain valve as recommended, ensure to obtain a 'Full Bore' valve.
Depending on the application, some ball valves are not full bore and only have a small opening through the valve ball. A 1/2" valve for example, may only have a 1/4" - 3/8" hole through the valve ball which may not allow larger pieces of sediment to pass through. A 'Full Bore' valve will utilize a ball port opening equal to the size of the valve's internal diameter.
Thinktwicez71
New Member
I have a sidearm on my water heater for my boiler , water heater is 4 years old and when I installed the boiler sidearm I replaced the drain with a full port ball valve with a garden hose adapter on it for easier flushing
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Very nice! Best way to do it, just don"t do that on a steam boiler...
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
I made that mistake ... once... while I was less experienced.just don"t do that on a steam boiler...
A 20 second blow-down in each of our 30 psi steam boilers was performed each day to reduce sediment. This always went without incident except for when I had closed the steam outlet valve and then performed the blow-down. I thought a freight train was coming through the boiler room as the water was sloshing back and forth within the boiler while rapidly vaporizing with the sudden loss of pressure. Once I clued-in and slowly opened the steam valve, then things equalized and finally calmed down - yikes.
Thinktwicez71
New Member
i know this is an old post and im sorry , but my water has slowly been getting a weird smell to it . i cant really put my finger on it , musty , swampy smell i guess u would call it. i do have red in the back tanks of my toilets , but not much staining other than that . could it be iron bateria ? .....the brine tank of my water softener smells exactly like what my water smells like , both hot and cold taps.
i just got some super iron out and put that in my brine tank ( 1 cup) let it sit for 2 hours and then did a manual regen which is running right now . do i follow up with 1/3 cup of bleech in there as well and another regen ?
also , do i need to do the same thing to my well head and let the chlorine sit in my pipeing for 24 hours ?
sorry for so many questions but the wife is freaking out and its kinda a gross smell
also , its not the rotten egg smell , my wifes parents have that at their house , i would honestly sell my house if i had to deal with that smell haha
i just got some super iron out and put that in my brine tank ( 1 cup) let it sit for 2 hours and then did a manual regen which is running right now . do i follow up with 1/3 cup of bleech in there as well and another regen ?
also , do i need to do the same thing to my well head and let the chlorine sit in my pipeing for 24 hours ?
sorry for so many questions but the wife is freaking out and its kinda a gross smell
also , its not the rotten egg smell , my wifes parents have that at their house , i would honestly sell my house if i had to deal with that smell haha
How big is your softener? 1/4 cup would be about right for 1.5 cubic ft.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well and plumbing sanitizing write-up.
Sanitizing will probably help with the smell, at least for a while. You may need a backwashing iron+sulfur filter before the softener going forward.
Thinktwicez71
New Member
i have a 64,000 grain 2.0cu ft
any reccomendations on the filter ? brand , model ? thank you
Thinktwicez71
New Member
so i did the super iron out yesterday (1 cup diluted in 2 gallons water ) let it sit 2 hours did a manual regen . this morning i added 1/4-1/2 cup of liquid bleech to the brine tank , again i let it sit 2 hours and then did a manual regen . the smell is still there although i dont think its as strong. i assume i need to do the bleech in my well and let it sit 24 hours ? the bacteria is prolly in my water heater and water lines in my house .
any suggestions ?
any suggestions ?
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Raise your water temp and maintain more than 140 degrees for several hours.
While the temp is raised, open each hot faucet to allow the extra hot water flow through the lines for several minutes to sanitize the hot lines.
Caution needs to be exercised while performing this task especially with children or elderly persons present as the hot water can scald immediately.
Thinktwicez71
New Member
what about the cold water ? do i need to do the bleech in my well also and run it through my lines in the whole house ?
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
It would be highly recommended to sanitize all of your plumbing. Be sure to bypass the softener during this process.
Thinktwicez71
New Member
ok so yesterday morning i sanitized my well and entire house . i put my softener in bypass , added 2 gallons of bleach to my well , ran a hose into my well and let it circulate for 30 minutes after i smelled chlorine in the water , opened all my faucets , showers hot and cold and toilets till they all had strong chlorine smell in them. i let it sit for 24 hours and flushed it all this am. hot side is alot harder to get the chlorine out of than the cold . i even drained the water heater a few times but it still smells like chlorine some. my pool test kit says cold has 0 ppm chlorine and hot has 0 - .5ppm .
heres the thing , my cold water now that it doesnt smell like chlorine i can kinda still smell the odor in the water , the main reason i did the sanitizeing , but only with my softener in service , if i put it in bypass mode the smell is gone from my water . is something wrong with my almost 1 year old softener ? i did the iron out treatment last week ( smelled before treatment) and i even put a cup of bleach in my brine well and let sit for 2 hours and did a regharge . im kinda lost , wondering if its not flushing enough or something ? any ideas ?
could a drain line that was pinched be a culprit ? not letting it backwash enough ?i dunno im kinda lost with this .
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