Tony B
New Member
Luckily I have two wells. The other one is only 235 feet deep and runs out of water at times. I replaced that pump and motor in 2012.
Well pump issues
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I think that further supports the conclusion that the motor is starting, but the water is blocked.
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Craigpump
In the Trades
You stated earlier you had 10+ amps, now it's 4?
Because you have limited diagnostic equipment, try taking the Pump Tek out of line. Pull the cover and connect the lead & load wires together and see what happens.
Are there overloads on the bottom of the box? Are they reset?
Because you have limited diagnostic equipment, try taking the Pump Tek out of line. Pull the cover and connect the lead & load wires together and see what happens.
Are there overloads on the bottom of the box? Are they reset?
I think 10 was run winding during run, and 4 dropping to 1.4 was start winding during starting.
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Tony B
New Member
That's right. Two of the wires are at about 10.4 and the other wire changes from 4 to 1.4. There is a reset button on the bottom of the controller box. I have pressed it many times and it has no effect.
Tony B
New Member
The Pump Tek and the Goulds box are being used on the well I'm having the trouble with. The other box is for the good well. The Pump Tek displays a green light when I turn the breaker on and the pressure switch closes sending power to the pump. All that seems to be working correctly. Is there the possibility of a 'vapor lock' between check valves?
Nope! But there is a possibility a check valve is in backwards or the poppet is broke and shutting it down.
Tony B
New Member
At this point I'm thinking that check valve in the middle of the pipes is stuck closed. So at the very least I'll be pulling about 250' of pipe up to check it.
I would just remove it. Any check valve further up the line from the pump can get a real shock when the pump starts. It could have slammed the poppet up into the pipe and closed it off. Might also find it packed with electric tape or some other debris.
Tony B
New Member
If I was to remove that valve from the middle of the pipe wouldn't that be a lot of water (weight) sitting on the valve on the pump? Removing the one in the pipe would leave only one valve in the house and the one on the pump.
Remove the one in the house too.
Like Reach says, the only check you want is the one on the pump.
Tony B
New Member
Wouldn't the house water back flow then? Also, if you look at the setup I have in the basement, would the pumps send water out the 'in' pipes of the other well?
If there was a leak, then yes. If it were a small leak, water from the pressure tank would keep a vacuum from forming in pipes. That way no contaminates could get sucked in. Also there would not be water slamming up as the vacuum got filled when the pump turns on. Maybe slamming is too strong of a word.
Now that slamming might not be all that bad. Many have more than one check valve, including an above-water check valve, without noticeable problems. A check valve up top can work around a failed check valve below for a while.
There are differing intelligent views on this. CT is alone in requiring a topside check valve. Some other states forbid a topside check valve. I think the case is better for not having an above-water check valve. Having both one in the pump and another right above or 20 ft up is good. If you search the forum, you will find that this has been discussed many times. See which case you think makes better sense to you.
I wouldn't even put another 20' up from the pump. I have had problems with that as well.
Tony B
New Member
Once I do all that work to get to the valve half way down the pipe. I'm just going to take it off and get rid of it. This isn't a 100' well... Mitigating possible issues now will save having to do this again.
Absolutely!
Craigpump
In the Trades
Old wives tale, if the pump won't lift the water another check valve isn't gong to help
Tony B
New Member
So, after all these years of that brand new pump and motor sitting at the bottom of the well doing nothing... I finally called an outfit to help me. The issue was limestone sediment was clogging the well pipes. Of course the check valve wasn't working, it was jammed full of debris. I should've known better. But alas, I am not a well man.
So this time I sent the pump down on a solid 500' pipe. Tons of water and pressure now! Now I have to flush it out. The water is filled with a sandy grit. I can pump it out and discharge down my back hill. How long before any improvement? I've heard 24 hours. If so, how long can the motor safely run in one shot? Thanks for any advice.
So this time I sent the pump down on a solid 500' pipe. Tons of water and pressure now! Now I have to flush it out. The water is filled with a sandy grit. I can pump it out and discharge down my back hill. How long before any improvement? I've heard 24 hours. If so, how long can the motor safely run in one shot? Thanks for any advice.
Motors/pumps are made to run 24/7/365. I have one that hasn't shut off in over 18 years so far. Some wells clean up in a few hours, some take days. Sometimes you have to turn the pump off for a short while and turn it on again to stir up the sediment to get it out.
OH and BTW, NEVER shut a pump off while it is making lots of sediment. It may bind up and not start the next time. Let it clean up as much as possible before turning it off.
OH and BTW, NEVER shut a pump off while it is making lots of sediment. It may bind up and not start the next time. Let it clean up as much as possible before turning it off.
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