Tony B
New Member
Luckily I have two wells. The other one is only 235 feet deep and runs out of water at times. I replaced that pump and motor in 2012.
I think that further supports the conclusion that the motor is starting, but the water is blocked.It goes from about 4 amps to 1.4 in the first second or so.
I think 10 was run winding during run, and 4 dropping to 1.4 was start winding during starting.You stated earlier you had 10+ amps, now it's 4?
Is there the possibility of a 'vapor lock' between check valves?
Remove the one in the house too.Removing the one in the pipe would leave only one valve in the house and the one on the pump.
Remove the one in the house too.
Remove the one in the house too.
If there was a leak, then yes. If it were a small leak, water from the pressure tank would keep a vacuum from forming in pipes. That way no contaminates could get sucked in. Also there would not be water slamming up as the vacuum got filled when the pump turns on. Maybe slamming is too strong of a word.Wouldn't the house water back flow then?
Once I do all that work to get to the valve half way down the pipe. I'm just going to take it off and get rid of it. This isn't a 100' well... Mitigating possible issues now will save having to do this again.
If I was to remove that valve from the middle of the pipe wouldn't that be a lot of water (weight) sitting on the valve on the pump? Removing the one in the pipe would leave only one valve in the house and the one on the pump.
This is awkward, but...
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