Water pressure fluctuates

[Endwrench]

Hi All,
well this has been going on for sometime, but it isn't that big of an issue either. What it is, when you run the water in any of the outlets, the water pressure keeps dropping and then just as quickly, it comes right back up again. It also tends to change the temperature of the blended water to a cooler or really a cold temperature especially when you are "blending" the water at the spouts, as in trying to attain a warm water and not too hot. This seems to be worse on the outlets closest to the source.
Where I had installed a water tempering valve sometime ago without a shut off to my hot water outlet of my electric water heater due to my preheating of my water in my wood furnace and the fact that the water was coming out too hot to the outlets, I installed a shut off valve to isolate this tempering valve, that did not help. I figured that the tempering valve was dumping cold water into my hot water outlet, that does not appear to be the case, after this test.
I do also have a tempering valve in the water feed to my toilet to keep it from sweating in the Summer, which I suspected from the beginning. I also isolated that and it did not help, problem still existed.
I feel that it's either a problem with the air bladder in my water tank, which I would have to drain to check properly or there is some issue with my electric water heater.
In case this helps, I have a submersible pump with a 40 gallon air bladder tank in my cellar, a 52 gallon Sears electric water heater and I supplement that with a 3/4" brass pipe coil in my wood furnace, which also has a 30 gallon circulating tank as well and the water from that is piped into the hot water side of the electric water heater.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

I suspect you are just seeing the pressure fluctuate from the pump cycling on at 40 and off at 60 PSI. A 40 gallon tank only holds about 12 gallons of water, so for every 12 gallons you use, the pressure goes from 60 to 40 then 40 to 60 all over again. If the tank is waterlogged, (bad diaphragm) it is not holding 12 gallons and is making the pressure fluctuate even faster.

If you have a smaller tank and a constant pressure valve holding a steady 50 PSI all the time, all your problems will go away. Plus the 50 PSI constant will make the shower pressure seem much stronger.

A PK1A will solve your problem and make your pump last longer. Here is an animation that explains the problem with the OLD pressure tank only system, and shows how to use a Cycle Stop Valve as in the PK1A to solve those issues.

 

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[Reach4]

If you have a well, watch the pressure gauge during an episode that you describe. Either get a helper, or video the gauge while you do what causes the symptom. Is the thing you describe reflected on the pressure gauge? If you have city water, also use a pressure gauge. Except you probably don't have one. In that case, put a pressure gauge on some pipe that branches off early in your house. This could be a hose spigot near the water meter. It could be a cold water faucet that is usually connected to your washing machine. You can get a usually pressure gauge with a garden hose thread locally for under US$20 in most places. In other places, get it on order.

 

[Endwrench]

Thanks valveman, you state in your reply a "PK1A" and the website states "CSV1A", are these all the same or which one would you recommend?

Thanks again for your interest.

 

[Reach4]

PK1A is a whole kit, and CSV1A is a the main component in that kit.

 

[Valveman]

If your pressure tank is still good all you need is the CSV1A Cycle Stop Valve. If you need a new pressure tank the PK1A kit includes a tank as well as the CSV1A and other fittings needed.

 

[Endwrench]

OK, thanks, I'll try to remember to write back and let you guys know how this turned out.