Fine Mesh to Standard Resin question

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Mike Kaz

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Have a Fleck 5600SE 64K grain that I am re-bedding due to the sand in/from the well. It had 2 cubic feet of fine mesh resin along with the gravel at the bottom. Replacing the resin with the regular 8% cross linked. I understand i no longer need the gravel, but am I able to use the same bottom basket or do i need to order a new one? It was for the fine mesh and is the type that, when you take it apart, looks like a bunch of disks screwed together.

Thanks
 

Bannerman

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Your bottom distributor will likely have finer slots to prevent passing the finer mesh resin. The finer slots may increase flow restriction. The distributor you have could be reused but you may wish to replace it to ensure the least flow restriction. As the distributor will likely be cemented to the riser, ensure the correct riser diameter is obtained if it is being replaced.

A gravel underbed is always recommended. The underbed not only keeps the resin away from the distributor so resin is less likely to pass into the plumbing is there was an issue with the distributor, it is mainly intended to distribute water flow across the entire diameter of the tank, thereby better utilizing more of the resin bed.

Is incoming sand still a concern? If so, you may wish to consider a Lakos Twist2 Clean filter prior to the softener.
http://www.twistiiclean.com/
 
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Mike Kaz

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Your bottom distributor will likely have finer slots to prevent passing the finer mesh resin. The finer slots may increase flow restriction. The distributor you have could be reused but you may wish to replace it to ensure the least flow restriction. As the distributor will likely be cemented to the riser, ensure the correct riser diameter is obtained if it is being replaced.

A gravel underbed is always recommended. The underbed not only keeps the resin away from the distributor so resin is less likely to pass into the plumbing is there was an issue with the distributor, it is mainly intended to distribute water flow across the entire diameter of the tank, thereby better utilizing more of the resin bed.

Is incoming sand still a concern? If so, you may wish to consider a Lakos Twist2 Clean filter prior to the softener.
http://www.twistiiclean.com/

Thanks...

As far as the sand issue, we have to have a new well drilled. We have something similar to the twistclean, but it fills up with with sand after flushing the toilet just once. Its that bad.
 

Reach4

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Thanks...

As far as the sand issue, we have to have a new well drilled. We have something similar to the twistclean, but it fills up with with sand after flushing the toilet just once. Its that bad.
Check http://www.lakos.com/groundwater.htm for heavier duty choices such as Sandmaster.

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/lakos-sub-k-sand-separators.66384/

From what I have read, some drillers are much better at producing sand-free wells than others.
 

ditttohead

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You need some sort of sand separator. This is simple and cheap. Be sure to adjust your flow control on the valve to adjust for the proper backwash rate. Check with the resin manufacturer but in general, the backwash will be 5 gpm per ft2 at 60-70 degrees. Lower temperatures will need lower backwash rates, higher temp... higher.
As to the screen, always replace it with a Fleck or Clack original. Watch out as there are many knockoffs that look just like a Fleck screen, these are typically junk from China that costs 20 cents. These an usually be crushed in your hand with ease an is a common part that many "low cost leader" will use in their systems in order to be a few dollars cheaper than the next guy. If a screen fails it can be pure misery.
 
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