Pressure tank in casing?

[75highboy]

Is it possible to have the pressure tank in the well casing?

I am the second owner of this house. It was built about 10 years ago. The original owners had the well dug and plumbed to a shed so they could live in it while they built the house. The control box and pressure switch are in the well casing laying above the pitless adapter. I was told by the previous owner that the pressure bladder is in the well casing. I shined a flashlight down and I could not see anything resembling a bladder. I don't believe there is a pressure bladder because the pump kicks on and off with every small demand.

With all this said, I would like to install a pressure tank in the house (the shed is not heated anymore). Would I be able to leave the pressure switch and control box in the well casing and just install the pressure tank in the basement? I'm assuming not, because the pressure switch should be after the pressure tank, which has a check valve before it. Also, the power for the well pump comes from the shed's service panel, not the house's service panel.

Regarding wiring for the switch, I would rather not trench the hundred and fifty feet from the house to the well. Any suggestions for getting a pressure tank installed in the house?

 

[Reach4]

Pressure tanks down the well have not turned out to be reliable.

Your pressure switch and pressure tank should be together.

With a submersible pump, there should be a check valve at the pump. It is usually best to not have any check valve above the water level.

Also, the power for the well pump comes from the shed's service panel, not the house's service panel.

Regarding wiring for the switch, I would rather not trench the hundred and fifty feet from the house to the well. Any suggestions for getting a pressure tank installed in the house?

You can bury a pressure tank with the bottom portion below the frost line. There are tanks made for the purpose. You are better off covering the tank with sand for easier digging later if you need to replace it. http://www.amtrol-tanks.com/amtrol-well-x-trol-tanks.pdf lists underground models at the top of page 2. I am not sure what you do for the pressure switch in that case.

 

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[JRC3]

I was told by the previous owner that the pressure bladder is in the well casing. I shined a flashlight down and I could not see anything resembling a bladder.

Could their be a cycle stop valve or some other type constant pressure valve located in the casing that the previous owners are talking about.

...because the pump kicks on and off with every small demand.

If it does have some type valve, maybe it's not set or working correctly. What do you see down the hole?

 

[Valveman]

If you have an in well pressure tank then there must be a CSV in the well also. The CSV would be just below the in well tank, so you would not be able to see it. You should be able to see the top of the in well tank. It will be about 4" in diameter down a few feet below the pitless.

Some of the problems with the in well tank includes the fact that it doesn't hold but 1/2 gallon of water, and that the bladder will not last long. And many times when the bladder is bad the rapid cycling will hammer the CSV seat until it stops working as well. If the CSV is still working, the pump should not shut off as long as you are using 2 GPM or more.

If the power comes from the house to the well, then you could easily move the pressure switch to the house so you could also move the pressure tank to the house. We use the PK125 kit with this type of set up. With the PK125 the CSV can still be in the well so you can tee off the main line anywhere you want. But the pressure tank. pressure switch, and other fittings can be in the house. This way you can use a standard type diaphragm tank, which is much more reliable and long lasting than an in well tank. A 4.5 gallon size tank holds about 1 gallon of water, which is twice as much as an in well tank.

The PK125 kit was designed to replace in well tanks and buried tanks. You can see it here.
https://cpkits.com/collections/frontpage/products/pk125-pside-kick-kit

 

[winnie7310]

If you have an in well pressure tank then there must be a CSV in the well also. The CSV would be just below the in well tank, so you would not be able to see it. You should be able to see the top of the in well tank. It will be about 4" in diameter down a few feet below the pitless.

Some of the problems with the in well tank includes the fact that it doesn't hold but 1/2 gallon of water, and that the bladder will not last long. And many times when the bladder is bad the rapid cycling will hammer the CSV seat until it stops working as well. If the CSV is still working, the pump should not shut off as long as you are using 2 GPM or more.

If the power comes from the house to the well, then you could easily move the pressure switch to the house so you could also move the pressure tank to the house. We use the PK125 kit with this type of set up. With the PK125 the CSV can still be in the well so you can tee off the main line anywhere you want. But the pressure tank. pressure switch, and other fittings can be in the house. This way you can use a standard type diaphragm tank, which is much more reliable and long lasting than an in well tank. A 4.5 gallon size tank holds about 1 gallon of water, which is twice as much as an in well tank.

The PK125 kit was designed to replace in well tanks and buried tanks. You can see it here.
https://cpkits.com/collections/frontpage/products/pk125-pside-kick-kit

Is there a way you can email me about this subject I have same set up it freezes amd I have a high electric bill I think pump is constantly running. Not sure why they set it up this way when they put my well in. I have never seen anything like it

 

[Valveman]

Is there a way you can email me about this subject I have same set up it freezes amd I have a high electric bill I think pump is constantly running. Not sure why they set it up this way when they put my well in. I have never seen anything like it

I replied to your other thread. You can call if you would like. 806-885-4445 Cary