Clothes washer drainpipe

Users who are viewing this thread

Sbmmm

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Arizona
Is it acceptable to design a CW drainpipe with a jog using two 1/8" fittings? IOW, above the trap and below the connection opening for the CW I am considering making this jog. Ok by current code? Thanks.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Is it acceptable to design a CW drainpipe with a jog using two 1/8" fittings? IOW, above the trap and below the connection opening for the CW I am considering making this jog. Ok by current code? Thanks.

That is fine. You can also use two 45's.
 

Sbmmm

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Arizona
Of course, I meant 1/8th (of a circle's 360 *s) without the inches (just in that notation habit). So, the 45*s are exactly what I was wondering. Thanks, that helps.
 

Sbmmm

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Arizona
Just make sure that the the 45's are low enough for your drain tube to go in. Which a foot of vertical at top is enough

This was a question I wanted to keep separate from the project I am doing here -
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/dwv-project-how-does-this-look.66185/#post-493543

I was considering putting the washer and dryer next to each other (as a suggested option). This necessitated changing the in-wall pipes, but I didn't like the 2" pipe going at 45* through wall studs. Nor did I like the 2" cleanout on the upstream end to be behind the dryer. However, the plumbing wall will be non-load bearing and I will be doing the framing as well, so I do have flexibility. I already have to modify the stud locations in the framing layout to something that isn't standard (16" OC), but that was expected. It would just be a matter of how much framing modification is needed.

Attached is a pic I took of a dry fit mock-up for this option. If I did choose this option and the highest 45* isn't low enough, I suppose I would move the P-trap further away from the vertical drain/fitting, thereby requiring the highest 45* to be lowered (all else being equal). Or, because the pipes were cut long for the dry fit mock-up, I could also shorten the vertical pipe below the back-to-back fitting to lower everything, including the 45s. Thanks for the tip.
 

Attachments

  • CW_Dryer_option_2.jpg
    CW_Dryer_option_2.jpg
    107.6 KB · Views: 218
Last edited:

Sbmmm

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Arizona
I had another thought. Intuitively, this seems wrong (not vertical enough) or is it ok? Can the CW drainpipe use 90* fittings (with a Long 90* on the vertical to horizontal) so that it can fit in one stud bay? See picture. Or does the lack of vertical length when using 90s not meet code? Or does this design above a P-trap not meet code?

BTW, this is a slightly different dry fit mock-up design from the picture in my post above, but I am just trying to understand the CW drainpipe's design possibilities (to better work within framing)...thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160725_114315.jpg
    IMG_20160725_114315.jpg
    104.4 KB · Views: 197

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
1. What is going on at A??? I can't envision what that is.

2. Could the double fixture fitting at the lower E move up (one of the Es was supposed to be a D) The standpipe could be 18 inches tall, I think.

3. Upper E and C are going to be combined as vents up higher, right?

4. B needs to be a long sweep because you are going from vertical to horizontal.

img_1.jpg
 

Sbmmm

New Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Arizona
1. What is going on at A??? I can't envision what that is.

2. Could the double fixture fitting at the lower E move up (one of the Es was supposed to be a D) The standpipe could be 18 inches tall, I think.

3. Upper E and C are going to be combined as vents up higher, right?

4. B needs to be a long sweep because you are going from vertical to horizontal.

Alright, thanks. Please note that the photo you marked was an example of what I was considering, but have chosen not to pursue because I don't like the diagonal cuts through the studs for 2" pipe. It was the genesis for the original post question in this thread. The second picture in this thread was a possible solution to keep this 2" pipe inside a single stud bay. Possible? Nevertheless, your response has been helpful because it made me think about the LT connection.

1. In this photo, "A" is to service the Laundry Tub/sink. It is a san-tee with a street 90 coming out the tee's top opening. I wanted to add an extra cleanout below the LT. The top opening is for the cleanout and the bottom is for the drain arm. With my particular sink, it's not really deep like a normal LT, so I routed the drain/CO into a vertical position. But, as I think about it, maybe someone in the future may want a deeper LT. In this case, I may use a combo fitting and the street 90 to make it horizontal (keeping the connections lower inside the LT cabinet).
2. Yes, I can raise/lower the back-to-back fitting. This was a dry fit mock-up for DWV work and I included in-wall pipes/connections for illustrative purposes.
3. Yes. For a larger context and the bigger questions (this thread was meant to identify CW standpipe design possibilities), please see and feel free to critique the larger job, here - https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/dwv-project-how-does-this-look.66185/#post-493543
4. It's just the picture angle, but "B" is a long turn 90.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks