Advice needed on line size to new home

[Nuclearsteel]

I am building a home in central PA and I would like some advice on the water line that I need to run from the street to my house. I am building a 4 bedroom home that has 34 fixture units per my calculations. I have a very small private water company who recently installed a tapping saddle off of their 4" line for my house. From that saddle they ran about a 2' piece of 3/4" PE rated for 200 psi into a curb stop with Ford type compression coupling on both ends. Pretty standard looking Ford 3/4" curb stop to me.

So I need to run the line about 100' to my house where I will. have the 2x check, meter and PRV.

I am an former manufacturing maintenence guy / engineer and have good experience with commercial and industrial piping...admittedly I don't have a lot of experience with residential potable water once outsize the confines of the house. My figuring tells me I need a 1" or 1-1/4" PE piping rated for 160 or 200 psi. I was planning on using 1".

I really expected the water compant to install a 1" tap and I happened to show up when they were installing the saddle with 3/4" ta off the 4" line. I asked if it is a 1" tap (I knew it wasn't) and the guy said...naa we only use 3/4" taps and 3/4" curb stop. I know that 3/4" tap will limit me but I am worried about friction loss over 100' to the house if I run 3/4" from the curb stop to the house. The water company covers this part so I guess I got what I paid for.

So my question is should I use 1" PE and what's the best way (fittings, adapters) to go from 3/4" to 1"? I am guessing I am not getting a 1" tap at this point. It looks to me there is a shutoff on the saddle too...I am thinking about changing that curb stop to a 1" x 3/4" curb stop and running 1" from there. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Nuclearsteel]

Anyone???

 

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[Reach4]

For wells, you would use poly pipe with barbs. There are extra-long barbs available that can accommodate 3 worm gear clamps. The worm gears should be on opposite sides if 2 clamps are used. I think the long barbs would be because hundreds of pounds could be dangling from the barb in a well.

For sizes, there are at least 3 different sizing methods for poly pipe. For poly pipe used for wells they use ASTM D2239 where IPS ID is held and OD varies with PSI ratings. http://www.charterplastics.com/pipe/ D2239 is a size standard AFAIK. With that system, the same barbed fittings can be used with different thickness pipe.

For 1 inch vs 1.25 inch pipe, I guess the deal is that would depend on the GPM usage and the pressure drop you could accept. If the pressure on your water system is 45 PSI, I would go bigger. If it is 70, then smaller would be good. If it is over 80, you should have a PRV (pressure reducing valve) in the house plus an expansion tank.

No meter in your system so far.

I would keep the stuff they installed, because that is their responsibility I presume. That short section of 3/4 is not going to keep you from drawing 25 GPM IMO. Search the web for pipe calculators

I am not a pro.

 

[Nuclearsteel]

I think that I will figure out what size male threads are on the output side of that Ford Curb Stop 3/4" under the compression nut and figure out how to adapt to a 3/4" to 1" CTS Pack Joint. If it is standard pipe thread should be pretty easy. Then I can run 1" right to the house.

Thoughts?

 

[Plumber69]

U can't oversize a line coming to your house. Depends on pressure. Here we vary from 40-80 psi. Our 40 psi people have 1 inch and some have booster pumps.

 

[Jadnashua]

Friction in the pipe depends on a few things: the pipe diameter, the flow rate, the pipe length, and the type and quantity of fittings used. Then, if there is any elevation change, the pressure will also vary by about 0.43#/foot elevation change. Within reason, it's generally better to go with a larger line to minimize any losses and to provide capacity for later changes such as an irrigation system, an extra bathroom, or worst case, everything being in use at the same time. On copper pipe with cold water, the Copper Institute recommends a maximum flow rate of NGT 8ft/sec (5ft/sec for hot)...the actual volume would depend on the pipe diameter and pressure available. Some of the plastic pipes allow a higher maximum flow rate. Exceeding that can lead to noise, turbulence, and wear of the inside of the pipe. A short section of smaller diameter pipe tends to act like a venturi...the fluid speeds up through that short section, and then slows down upon exiting. The internal friction is there, but may not be huge, depending on the length and flow rate. IT becomes a major component of friction the longer that pipe restriction is.

 

[Nuclearsteel]

So with all this said....I think I am going to install a 1" line

 

[Nukeman]

This might help:

https://terrylove.com/watersize.htm

Depending on the ID of the piping material used, you might have to step up one nominal size compared to copper.

 

[Reach4]

This might help:

https://terrylove.com/watersize.htm

Depending on the ID of the piping material used, you might have to step up one nominal size compared to copper.

ASTM D2239 poly is significantly bigger ID than PEX for a given nominal size, and it is even slightly larger ID than copper. The 1 inch is 1.049 ID.