Problems replacing a rusted out toilet flange...

[jkats]

Hi all,

I'm in the middle of a bathroom renovation, and when I removed my toilet I saw that the metal ring on the flange was rusted out, so I removed it. I have not removed the rest of the flange, which is fitted over the the 4" ABS drain pipe (see pic). I will be tiling the concrete floor, replacing old vinyl flooring, so the finished floor will be 1/2" or so higher, requiring the new flange to be raised. I have two issues I'm hoping someone can help me out with:

1: What's the best way to replace the flange? From what I've been able to gather from the googling I've done, a possible solution seems to be to use a replacement flange that cements inside the 4" pipe. Is this the best solution? Do I need to remove the rest of the existing flange?

2: From what I've read, it seems to be very important to secure the flange's metal ring to the floor. As you can see in the pic, there is a gap between the concrete and the pipe, which is exactly where the holes in the metal ring line up, making it impossible to bolt the ring down (the old flange was not bolted down). Is there some trick to getting the ring secured to the floor in a situation like this?

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

I have not removed the rest of the flange, which is fitted over the the 4" ABS drain pipe (see pic).

So you have the inside of the 4-inch ABS free. Look at the Sioux Chief 667-GAM

This shows the picture of the PVC version, but the number for the ABS version is at the bottom:
http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/defa...nge-with-swivel-ring---pushtite.pdf?sfvrsn=10

I don't know if the ID of 4 inch PVC differs at all from 4-inch ABS. I suspect the 887 GAM and 887-GPM are interchangeable for those that don't care if the color of the flange plastic matches the color of the pipe.

Anyway, build your floor first. Then this can fit inside and you screw down the stainless steel flange. I think this should take less skill and practice than gluing a classic 3-4 inch flange I figure. (Such flanges are made such that the same flange can be glued outside a 3-inch pipe, or inside a 4-inch.) The PushTite gives more margin for the vertical positioning, and has the bonus that you could someday replace it for new floor work without having to deal with glue.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[jkats]

So you have the inside of the 4-inch ABS free. Look at the Sioux Chief 667-GAM

This shows the picture of the PVC version, but the number for the ABS version is at the bottom:
http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/defa...nge-with-swivel-ring---pushtite.pdf?sfvrsn=10

I don't know if the ID of 4 inch PVC differs at all from 4-inch ABS. I suspect the 887 GAM and 887-GPM are interchangeable for those that don't care if the color of the flange plastic matches the color of the pipe.

Anyway, build your floor first. Then this can fit inside and you screw down the stainless steel flange. I think this should take less skill and practice than gluing a classic 3-4 inch flange I figure. (Such flanges are made such that the same flange can be glued outside a 3-inch pipe, or inside a 4-inch.) The PushTite gives more margin for the vertical positioning, and has the bonus that you could someday replace it for new floor work without having to deal with glue.

Thanks Reach4 - I will order one of those and give it a shot.

 

[jkats]

Quick follow-up question. I ended up getting the Sioux Chief 887-AM, which is the non-gasketed (glue-in) flange. I'm not sure if this is a problem, but the flange seems to fit pretty loosely in the pipe (there is actually a bit of wiggle room). Every other time I've cemented ABS or PVC pipe, the dry fit is usually pretty tight. Is this going to be a problem? Is it okay to just use an extra thick application of ABS cement?

 

[Standardairconditioner]

The recommended Push-Tite is the better choice here.

Cementing requires I.D. and O.D. of all parts to specifically match, and you don't have that now.