Any tips or tricks to make setting a toilet over the flange correctly the first time?

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CountryBumkin

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I've set one toilet. I removed it for tiling. It was a two-piece but I did not separate the pieces. it was heavy.
I found it difficult to see the flange bolts for alignment once I was straddling the toilet and holding all its weight.
The job went well - except I forgot to remove the rag I had stuffed in the pipe. :) That will never happen again (so I'm a little more experienced now).

Are there any methods you pros use to make the process easier when your working by yourself?

Would you separate the toilet tank from the bowl to reduce weight - or is this just adding another step and possible leak point?

How do you align the toilet perfectly over the flange (alignment extensions on the flange bolts)?

Do you put the wax ring on the toilet horn or over flange?
 

CountryBumkin

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I saw a posting somewhere that suggested when setting a toilet over a wax ring to let the front of the toilet touch the floor first then gently pivot the toilet over the flange bolts. The poster said do not try to set the toilet straight down over the bolts as it is easier to miss the bolts this way - then you need to start over with a new wax ring.

This seems to me to bad advice. I think this method would squish the wax ring at the front too much and cause a leak. Maybe it would work with one of those Sani-seals or Corky waxless rings.
 

Terry

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We use new bolts, which are higher and easier to see. Also, using old bolts can come with a surprise. They may have been cut two short for the new bowl and the threads may be bad.
We assemble the toilets first before installing. If we pull and reset, we never remove the tank. I don't like disturbin things that are currently working.
If the flange is lower than the finished flooring, we set down a standard wax ring, and then a wax with horn over that. This goes on the flange, not on the bowl.
We then pick up the bowl and looking over the edge, drop the bowl down over the bolts. If the seat hasn't been installed yet, you can look through the holes meant for the seat.
If we shim, we shim from the back and pin the front of the bowl down.
But, before we drop the wax on the flange, we dry set the bowl to see if any shimming will be done. I like to have any needed shims down first on the floor. That way we don't rock the wax seal.
When done, we use clear polyseamseal around most of the bowl, and leave a bit out at the back in case the seal leaks.

loctite-tub-tile.jpg
 
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CountryBumkin

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Nice tips. Especially the one about looking through the seat mounting holes.

I'm going to try the Sani-Seal this weekend.
 

Reach4

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A low spotter could be useful if there is enough room
 

Gary Swart

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One thing you might want to do is get a couple of extra nuts for the flange bolts. Put the flange bolt in placed and secure them to the flange with those extra nuts. The will keep the bolts upright and in place while you lower the toilet. Having another set of eyes would help also. If it was a new toilet, I would put the bowl down first then mount the tank. I don't disagree with Terry on this, but my back and physical strength isn't too happy about anymore weight than necessary. Since the bowl is already attached, let it alone.
 

Jadnashua

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Locking the bolts to the flange with a second set of nuts is a good idea, but note that not all of the bolt packages come with a second set of nuts and washers, and some of the bolts are not threaded far enough to actually use one! Those usually sold at a plumbing store are more likely to have the extra nuts and washers, and will work...not all those sold at the big box stores will even if you buy extra in the hardware department!
 

Reach4

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If those extra nuts are loose enough, they could still keep the closet bolts upright, yet you might still be able to adjust position the toilet, using the slop of the bolts into the flange slots, a bit over the SaniSeal. That could let you minimize the space to the back wall and maximize the space in front.
 

Gary Swart

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You only use 2 wax rings if the flange is below the finished flooring. In that case, you would use a standard ring on the flange then a ring with the plastic horn on that ring. Yes, you could use just two standard rings, but there would be a risk of the second ring squishing into the first and creating a blockage.
 

CountryBumkin

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Ready to tackle my project. have a new Sani-Seal. But my flange bolts/nuts are rusted tight - I think I will try my dremel tool to cut the nuts off rather than risk having the stud turn and round out the square hole in the flange.

I thought brass wasn't supposed to rust. Must be Chinese brass.
A magnet should not stick to brass - so I'll take a magnet to HD and be sure I getting brass bolts and not plated steel look-a-like.
 
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I've never turned a seized flange bolt so hard that it deformed the flange. Soak it in PB Blaster overnight, and if that doesn't turn with a generous torque from your socket wrench, then go ahead and grind the nuts off if you have a tool for it. Just take care not to nick the porcelain. Once you have that toilet lifted out, the flange bolts will just wriggle out of the flange slots they are in.

You are also right about 'Chinese' flange bolts.

A lot of toilet stuff I see at big box stores are brass plated, these look really shiny and bright. They look good for a couple of years, then they turn to what you have.

There are brass made bolts, and these are generally darker and more subdued. And depending on who is selling them, they may be significantly more in the retail price.
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