Is this Iron Bacteria or just iron build-up?

[ditttohead]

As stated earlier, no need to justify your purchase in this forum,. As an expert in this field with extensive knowledge of manufacturing capabilities and practices all over the world especially related to the water treatment industry, I will stick with Fleck, Clack, etc.

 

[JustaDIYer]

I appreciate all the replies and assistance, I believe I settled on the following:

- Fleck 2510
- 1.5cu ft KL media
- 10x54 standard tank (person recommened a Vortech, but reading posts here, doesn't sound worth the $60)
- <$750

Good? Bad? Any changes?

Does this valve have option for chlorine injection or chlorine during backwash? Does chlorine during backwash just cleanse the media better?

Next question: where to drain the backwash?
- sump
- septic (right above, 10' ceiling in basement)
- or sump drain pipe where it turns to exit the house (saves the sump pump from extra pumping, and again about 10' off basement floor)

Ill wait to ask what should WS settings should be after installation.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

The 2510 is ok,

the chlorine acts similar to a regenerant allowing the media to react better with the ferrous iron converting it to ferric.

Draining it 10' up is not a problem.

 

[Reach4]

Good? Bad? Any changes?

That is a timed mechanical control. Seems to be a classic, but of course I have no experience with it.
I compute that you would want a 8.18 GPM backwash to give you 15 G/sqft of backwash. That would correspond to your DLFC. From the manual, I see that that controller uses different parts for its softener vs its filter configuration. Available DLFCs include

60705-8.0 DLFC, QC x 3/4-inch F, 8.0 GPM
60705-9.0 DLFC, QC x 3/4-inch F, 9.0 GPM​

I presume that the filter versions accept the 3/4 DLFC buttons, and I think you will want to specify the button to include.

As I read it, the manual says you should run a 3/4 inch drain line. 10 ft of rise should not be a problem.

That sump pump exit sounds good if freezing shut is not a problem.

I wonder if you should use gravel.

 

[JustaDIYer]

so i should request the 8.0 or 9.0 DLFC button? i measured my well at about 10.5 GPM. it'll be 3/4" .

the basement ceiling it 10', so minus the height of the tank/valve output... less than 10'. i like the sump pipe (in Mich, so yes it gets below freezing, but it's inside yet)

what you mean.... should i use gravel? assumed the tank would contain a gravel bed.

 

[Bannerman]

An 8.0 DLFC for your 10" dia tank will provide just under 15 gpm per sqft which Dittohead and others recommend. (see post # 13 here: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/katalox-light.55338/)

The Katalox literature (http://www.purewaterproducts.com/img/docs/manuals/Katalox-Light.pdf) only states a standard rate of 5.6 gpm whereas Dittohead's recommendation is an optimal rate.

The filter backwashes using plumbing pressure so draining at ceiling height should not be an issue.

You may wish to consider installing a separate drain to the outside if you don't wish to discharge into the sump pit or connect to the septic system. A proper connection to the main sewer line would require a drain trap and an air gap to reduce the potential for cross contamination of the filter. Likewise, the end of the drain discharging into the sump pit should remain at least 1.5" above the top of the pit.

The sump pump drain connection will be an issue particularly if the outside pipe freezes or is otherwise blocked while the sump pump is operating. As the sump output is under pump pressure, an air gap can't be utilized so the filter drain tube would need to be connected directly, thus a potential for cross contamination from the sump discharge.

 

[ditttohead]

Look at the chart for bed expansion based on water temperature. All medias are affected by varying water temperatures. Many manufacturers use very cold water for their literature in order to appear to need very little backwash water.

Always use the temperature compensation charts to get an accurate backwash rate.

 

[Reach4]

Always use the temperature compensation charts to get an accurate backwash rate.

Sounds like there could be a need for a temperature-compensated DLFC.

 

[ditttohead]

It already exists and is fairly common. It is a simple PLC program that adjusts a ball valve based on a simple algorithm based on flow/temperature. The problem is that it typically runs about $1200 for a basic setup. Not exactly feasible when the application is not highly critical.

 

[JustaDIYer]

I'm fine with draining into the sump. WS and RO drains there now. Just thought about if the iron would affect it. And yes , would stagger regen times of ws and filter.

Sump is directly next to where I'd install this. So simple run there. And my sump has sealed cover for radon with a tube thru it that goes below water line. Shove drain tubes in there. How long do these filters backwash typically?

 

[Reach4]

My filter does BW=10, and because of the bleach solution, BD=4, RR=5, BF=0. I don't know if a mechanical valve can do BF=0.

 

[ditttohead]

My filter does BW=10, and because of the bleach solution, BD=4, RR=5, BF=0. I don't know if a mechanical valve can do BF=0.

I would recommend adjusting the brine fill to 1 minute. It will add very little water to the chemical tank, but it will clear the injector/brine valve area of the chlorine. These components can handle it, but they tend to last longer if you clear them.

 

[Reach4]

I would recommend adjusting the brine fill to 1 minute. It will add very little water to the chemical tank, but it will clear the injector/brine valve area of the chlorine. These components can handle it, but they tend to last longer if you clear them.

If I had a 0.125 BLFC rather than the 0.5, I would be more inclined to do that. But since my draw is 1.25 gallons of solution each time, I am thinking that by the time I have had 11 draws, the dilution would be fairly significant.