Well Head Spigot

Users who are viewing this thread

completenewbee

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Eden, North Carolina
Hi,

The top of my well head has a T with one side running to the house plumbing and the other directly to a spigot. This spigot is not a standard one that I could hook a hose into. On top of watering the grass around this area until it is established, I would like to occasionally water some fruit trees in that area of the lawn and would like to be able to have access to a spigot at that site.

Can I simply just replace this spigot with a standard one that has screw threads at the outlet? If not, could I just simply macgyver it using a hose and some clamps to add a short female end the existing spigot?

Thanks and any help or pointer is appreciated.

Photo showing what I am describing:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=T1hLeUVWZE9CVWpnd256VVcxRVV6WkRQU1hCWkZ3
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0632.jpg
    IMAG0632.jpg
    127.9 KB · Views: 2,868

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
Yes. A professional might say that if you want a garden hose thread on the new faucet, you should replace it with a faucet that has an anti-siphon valve. The reason is that if you leave the attached hose dipped into something, the plumbing could suck contaminated water under some circumstances.

You want to protect that PVC from the sun. I don't know if a paint is best or if there is a wrap that would be better.

I am not a pro.
 
Last edited:

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
While you're replacing the spigot, redo those splices properly with crimp type connectors and shrink tubing.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
I think that is just a test cock for sampling the water. I would replace it with a ball valve and then put a hose connector on the ball valve so you can open up enough water to keep the pump from cycling off while watering for long periods. A regular faucet will not let out enough water to keep the pump from cycling on and off repeatedly.
 

completenewbee

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Eden, North Carolina
Yes. A professional might say that if you want a garden hose thread on the new faucet, you should replace it with a faucet that has an anti-siphon valve. The reason is that if you leave the attached hose dipped into something, the plumbing could suck contaminated water under some circumstances.

You want to protect that PVC from the sun. I don't know if a paint is best or if there is a wrap that would be better.

I am not a pro.

Thanks for the reply. This has a cover over it so sun damage to the PVC should not be an issue. I just removed it for the image. Great suggestion about the anti-siphon valve. I guess that rules out the macgyver as an option.
 

completenewbee

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Eden, North Carolina
I think that is just a test cock for sampling the water. I would replace it with a ball valve and then put a hose connector on the ball valve so you can open up enough water to keep the pump from cycling off while watering for long periods. A regular faucet will not let out enough water to keep the pump from cycling on and off repeatedly.

Can you elaborate on the type of hose you're referring to? Are we talking about a regular garden hose connector or something else? I understand the ball valve but not sure what type of hose connector I would need or if I would need to up-size the hose to stop the cycling.

Thanks!
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
A 3/4 garden hose will let a lot of water through as long as there is nothing attached to it. If you attach sprinklers or anything, make sure they combine to at least 10 gpm.
 

completenewbee

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Eden, North Carolina
3/4 close nipple, 3/4 ball valve, and a 3/4 hose to pipe nipple or fitting.


Thanks for all the help guys.

I went for parts before you replied sadly. I think I have what I need but went one size to big. Because the PVC to the house piping was 1", I grabbed everything in a 1" including the ball valve. Sadly, my male-to-male connector for the T at the well head is at 1" and the wrong size. This needs to go down to a 3/4" as you replied. I guess while the PVC to the house was 1", the T connector had 3/4" female ends. I am going to head back shortly and try to get a 3/4" to 1" adapter to go from the T to my 1" ball valve.

Hindsight, I should have grabbed everything in 3/4" and I would not have had to worry about reducing from 1" to 3/4" and could have saved an adapter for reducing down to the hose adapter. Shamefully I had opened everything and applied tape before I realized my error.
 

completenewbee

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Eden, North Carolina
A 3/4 garden hose will let a lot of water through as long as there is nothing attached to it. If you attach sprinklers or anything, make sure they combine to at least 10 gpm.

You guys rock. Mission Accomplished I think.

When I went back searching for the 3/4" parts I needed, I ran across a 3/4" ball valve and hose adapter in one. I think this accomplishes what I need. I have it hooked up and running two sprinkler heads. I did not see any issues with short cycling that I can tell while using it with the sprinklers. Since there is some fruit trees in the area I would like to water as well, I assume I would be safe to hook a hose and shower nozzle to water these on occasion right? The reason I ask is you mentioned I need to be at least 10 gpm. I assume that is so the pump is not going on/off/on/off right?

Of course I will not have any back flow protection but I should be alright since I would be right on top of it when it is in use. Also, correct me if I am wrong but I thought the well head had a check valve at the top now to keep water from back filling down the water line and into the well right? I know I wouldn't be protected from back flow into the house but at least I should not have to worry about contaminating the well itself right?

Thanks again for all the information you guys provided helping out.



Photo: https://goo.gl/photos/LAmdMFWa5YP3FEEx9
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0634.jpg
    IMAG0634.jpg
    133.2 KB · Views: 1,933

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
I may have you confused with someone else. I thought you said you had a 10 gpm pump. What ever size pump you have you need to always use enough water to keep it running continuously. What you dont want is for pressure to creep up slowly for several minutes and the pump shut off. That means you are using enough water to quickly drain the tank. Then the pump will quickly restart while the motor is still hot, which is not good.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks