More case 3000 ti

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Hi all, I'm Dan, a thirty year repair plumber from St. Louis. My first recommendation for a case wall hung toilet is to put a support under it. I have seen them crack and fall down and forward which is a real problem. There is a rib which runs back to front at the bottom center of the toilet. Put a support from this spot down to the floor near the front of the ribbed area. You will save yourself a big headache someday.
I have repaired a case3000 with cracks in the waterways. This was done first and foremost because this toilet is located in a Frank Lloyd Wright house which the owner wanted to keep original. The toilet was a reddish shade which I do not have in stock. If anybody is interested I do have a green case 3000 with hanger bracket and a chip in the lid in my garage. I also have a black case 3000 and perhaps a pink one on the way. Anyway the repair to the cracked toilet was accomplished by draining and thoroughly drying the toilet. Then applying aquarium grade silicone to the cracked areas inside and out. Rather a tedious project but worth the effort all things considered. For the record, I affected this repair five years ago and it still works.

Another tip: If you ever run into a case toilet with a 57 ballcock, a rare beast as far as I know as I have only seen one, then there is a piston from an old style American standard ballcock which will fit the 57 ballcock.
 

WJcandee

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Well I at least would love to see some pictures of the different colors you have. I have only seen them in white, and it would be fun to see the color palette that was considered "modern" back when the Case 3000 was being built!
 

Jjman70

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Ok I don't know what my life is coming to...but here we go. A friend of mine has just purchased an old house on a golf course with many antiquities inside. I have been reading up on case toilets and I am up for the challenge. We have a house full of case 3000 1 piece toilets wall hung with the infamous case 57 ballcock. I was wondering if anyone in the world has ever taken them apart and changed the seals inside because I'm getting various difficulties from them. 1st of all they all seem to run forever, I think that this is because of the whopping 5 gallons of water per flush. One seems to squirt water out of the tank and all over the floor. The house is a fixer upper and I just got water to them yesterday. Changing out the toilets does not seem to be any easy option to say the least since no other toilet will fit the bolt pattern. I want to know if anyone can post me an exploded view of the 57 ballcock so that I might try io reverse engineer some seals to make these rarities work. I am not afraid to try and fix these but before I get started I'd like to know that someone cares or can help me a bit thanks!
 

WJcandee

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Well, we are all for you keeping the Case 3000, because we are fans. And there are some folks on here with real experience working them. But as George Washington said, I cannot tell a lie, so the reality is that you can readily replace them with either the American Standard Glenwall or the Gerber Maxwell. Although the bolt pattern is different, the carrier is standard. You take the thing off, open the wall, remove the Case specialized hanger that has been attached to the upper part of the carrier, and insert two new bolts in the previously-unused bolt holes of the upper part of what is otherwise a standard four bolt carrier. Either of the two toilets I described then mount just like you normally would.
 

Jjman70

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It seems that the top seal on the piston that opens and closes to let water into the tank is bad....at the moment when the bulb drops water shoots out of the tank and all over the floor. There is a about a one inch tube that the water should be going down but a the moment most of the water comes out of the top of the piston. Also the little lever that lets water from the rim of the toilet bowl , I broke the screw that holds the wire from the toilet handle....grrrr this is going to be interesting.
 

WJcandee

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It seems that the top seal on the piston that opens and closes to let water into the tank is bad....at the moment when the bulb drops water shoots out of the tank and all over the floor. There is a about a one inch tube that the water should be going down but a the moment most of the water comes out of the top of the piston. Also the little lever that lets water from the rim of the toilet bowl , I broke the screw that holds the wire from the toilet handle....grrrr this is going to be interesting.

Well before you completely destroy it :) (some of us have been there), why don't you shoot us a couple of photos of the tank innards and let our folks give you some recommendations. Also a nice beauty shot of the thing would be fun.

If Dan sees this, I like his suggestion that there is an AS piston that will fit the super-rare 57 ballcock and would encourage him to give us more details on it. If it comes in a kit, it might have some seals in the kit as well that would also fit.

Some of the folks that sell Case parts online still seem to have the handle parts, but I'm not sure that's actually what you are looking for.
 
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I will post pics asap.
Hey there, just grit your teeth and relax because there is always something you can do to get it fixed. I happen to have in my shop three salvaged case 3000 toilets. a light blue a pink and a light green and if pressed I know where to find one in black. But your best option is probably to fix the toilets you have. I am lucky to have as a friend one of the best parts guys around. Years ago when I encountered a case 57 ballcock I showed it to him and he went home and found a piston from an american standard or scovil ballcock that fit nicely and worked fine. If I were you I would start by taking one of the pistons out and go shopping to see if you could match it. My phone number is 314-957-6609, call if you like, I will help if I can.
Dan
 

Marian Zinnante

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I have been saving this forum for several years now and find myself needing expert HELP! I have an olde home with 5 of these CASE 30 wall hung toilets. Previously a plumber "rebuilt" 2 of them with a rebuild kit and that worked for a while. Now I have 33 of them which will not stop running necessitating turning the water valve off every time. Also one of them has the flush lever which will not return to the original position. I have seen the recommendations to replace the triple seal etc. BUT does anyone know a qualified plumber in the Dallas Fort Worth area and also could anyone on the forum provide advice? It would be a lifesaver. thanks!
 
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