Need some advise on submersible pump

[PumpMd]

30/50, 20/40 used to be the standard pressure on copper pipe but the pipe in people's homes have changed over the years & this why everyone is using 40/60 to overcome the friction loss due to the ID of your pipe. What kind of pipe do you have inside this place & the size of the pipe?

 

[PumpMd]

You always go with your cut/off pressure & then to the depth of your pump on the chart.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PumpMd]

I respectfully disagree, because the well would only be at -140 ft of water in unusual conditions. Most of the time there will be much higher water level. But there is merit to both. I still think a 1/2 HP would be quite sufficient in reality.

Tab2, a submersible is much more efficient then a jet pump. So if the jet pump was 1.5 HP, I expect you would get more water from a 3/4 submersible than the jet pump.

It's not like deciding if 160 HP in your car is enough or should you go for the 250 HP engine. It could be if you were thinking to use the increased pumping capacity to put in a 2 head plus 3 jet shower .

I would go 40/60 switch. If you want to change that setting later, turn the big nut in the Pumptrol pressure switch. Do read about the air precharge for your pressure tank.

You are correct, that is why I have a 3/4hp pump on my mother-in-law's house because she doesn't use the water heavy enough to make the water drop to the pump, which it can at 145ft & I also have it set to 40/60 with less than a minute run time but I dont want to start anything again about the runtime on a Franklin motor, that is my system and I will do what I want to it but Franklin says they want a minute runtime or better between cycles. I have a PSC-35, reach4 has seen it.

http://sta-rite.com/ResidentialProduct_sr_ws_tk_PSC_35_10.aspx

 

[TAB2]

I've got brand new copper in the house that I just installed. I have 3/4 inch copper main truck lines running horizontally and then 1/2 inch copper running vertically to each fixture. Most 1/2 runs are 2 feet with only the showers being 5 feet or so in height.

I do know that the submersible is much better and efficient then the jet pump but I really can't offer any input in the jet pump set up that was here as I just purchased this place last year and as I said it was vacant about 8 years and I'm sure the well had not been used in over ten and the pump was long ago locked up. It only had a 1/2 hp jet pump but then the intake for it was only down at about 90 feet. In looking at the pipe that I pulled out it appears the distance to the water used to be 50 feet but now it is at 80 feet.

While I know the water will likely never draw down to the 140' depth of the pump doesn't it still take more hp to pump water from down at 140', that's why I am asking about the hp. It would seem to me that the higher the pump has to push the water the more hp it needs. Am I wrong about that? In other words if I had the pump at only 100' down the well I'd think the 1/2hp would be fine but it won't be at 100' it will be down at 140'.

I just don't want to get too weak of a pump and then regret it later as then I am stuck with it.

 

[Reach4]

I think the 3/4 HP 10 GPM pump is more than you need but not greatly oversized. Either J class or Water horse can deliver 10 GPM or more all day from 140 feet, though the odds of ever needing to do that is low. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...er-towers-topple-under-water-limits/index.htm

Even with that pump, we all think you either need a much bigger pressure tank or a CSV.

 

[TAB2]

So if the goal is 60 second run time to fill the tank why is the 34 gallon tank I noted with a draw down a little over 10 gallons not want I want for a 10 gpm pump? The watersource site said this was the tank that matched the pump, etc.

I looked at all the csv info. It appears since the csv would be between the well cap and the tank (won't be putting it down in the casing) that I need the a version of the csv that won't vent water. The setting of that csv seems to be a bit involved. Is it easier then it sounds?

 

[Reach4]

So if the goal is 60 second run time to fill the tank why is the 34 gallon tank I noted with a draw down a little over 10 gallons not want I want for a 10 gpm pump? The watersource site said this was the tank that matched the pump, etc.

Look at the WX205 which is listed as a 34 gallon tank. It should be OK. Now most of the time that 3/4 HP pump will be pumping more than 10 GPM, but close enough, I think.

But you said a xtroll (which I presumed was Well-X-Trol -- top name in the business) 25 gallon tank. The WX-202XL is a 26 gallon tank with a drawdown of 7 or 8 gallons. Undersized, but not terribly so. Now if you are thinking of a different tank, what is it?

Regarding the Psidekick, which is a CSV+tank tee+4.5 gallon pressure tank+gauge+pressure gauge combo, I did not know they dribble -- do you have a cite for that? The CSV does look like one more thing to adjust initially, but it does not seem hard. That said, I have not actually seen one. I just have one well with one pressure tank and one pump.

 

[Valveman]

60 seconds of run time is the MINIMUM recommended. 2 minutes is better and running continuous when using water (as with a CSV) is best.

 

[Valveman]

The CSV1A that comes with the Pside-Kick does not leak. Only the plastic CSV125 valves that are made to fit in the well will drip a little. It doesn't always leak but it can if the water quality is not good as with sand or slimy iron. But installed in the well or outside it doesn't matter.

 

[Reach4]

While I know the water will likely never draw down to the 140' depth of the pump doesn't it still take more hp to pump water from down at 140', that's why I am asking about the hp. It would seem to me that the higher the pump has to push the water the more hp it needs. Am I wrong about that?

Yes.

For practical purposes, takes the same power/energy to pump from -140 or -100, as long as the water level is the same in both cases and is higher than the pump. OK, there is a tiny bit more power consumed by friction, but it is negligible.

It is the water level that matters.

Maybe you could experiment with a straw into a tall glass of drinking water. If you want a scientific blind test, have a long straw and a short straw, and have somebody holding the tops even and concealing the bottoms of the straws. You suck and try to distinguish which is long and which is short. No fair blowing, because that will have a big difference when the bubbles start.