Rough In

[urville]

I totally understand, but I think I might be your outlier, based on location and availability. Living here, this is hardly the first time things pan out like this. You learn to roll with it. Heh.

Two hours to the south, a whole other story.

 

[Jadnashua]

Buying online is a potshot for heavy, brittle things like a toilet. YOu may have better luck if you tell them you'll pick it up at the truck depot verses being delivered to your home...that's at least one less transfer from one truck to another. If I remember correctly, Terry was losing about 1/4 of every shipment to customers, which is why he stopped shipping to people. My personal experience pretty much matches that, it took 5 deliveries to get 4 good toilets. Safer to just buy locally, but sometimes, you pay more (not always, though!).

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

Breakage is a problem with online purchases. However, if you inspect the product very carefully upon delivery, and refuse delivery if there is breakage, you can get a replacement. It can be a PITA, but if you can wait for the replacement, you can come out OK. Inspection at delivery is vital.

 

[WJcandee]

Urv, Check your inbox.

 

[Bcarlson78248]

Do you have a Home Depot withing a reasonable distance? You can order them online from HD and they deliver them to your house or to the store in about a week. The tank cracked on mine during installation and I just took it back to the local store, where they gave me credit and ordered a new tank. The prices were almost the same as I could find anywhere else on line, and shipping was free.

Bruce

 

[urville]

So the guy who did this before me, he used an oatey twist tight flange, the pipe comes through the hole but it is this thin semi malleable metal. He had the lip mushroomed over the floor, and then the oatey on it to the little lip/tip so the flange was hovering .25 above the floor or so and the top of the flange was 3/4 above the floor. so i removed it and gently hammered the malleable metal flat to the floor, then hammered it round again, it was a tiny bit out at the very top, and reseated twisted the twist tight flange.

Now it sits flush on the floor!

BUT (isnt there always a but?)
when i test place the toilet on the flange (no wax of course) it wobblees a bit front to back. using a level there is a tiny bit of uneven across the entire floor, but not as much as these seems to be on the toilet. would this be the absence of the ring?

 

[Reach4]

when i test place the toilet on the flange (no wax of course) it wobblees a bit front to back.

Even if the flange were low, there could be some wobble. In the absence of more information, you cannot be sure that the wobbly toilet is even contacting the flange. Expect to use shims and a level. Normally you would have the toilet touch the floor at at least one place, but you do need shims.

You don't want to mash wax down, and then lift the front or back of the toilet to add shims. You might try pre-positioning the shims before lowering the toilet. Then by withdrawing shims slightly to get things level, you will be dropping rather than raising the toilet.

You don't say how high your flange currently comes above the floor level.

 

[urville]

flipped the toilet over and there is a piece of china that goes across the middle of the toilet and it just barley sticks out over the sides that will touch the floor. is this a defect or am i missing something essential to toilet design?

 

[urville]

FLANGE: Oh it sits flush with the floor and so the top is only the amount it is thick, i just measured, its .5inch thick flange

 

[Reach4]

flipped the toilet over and there is a piece of china that goes across the middle of the toilet and it just barley sticks out over the sides that will touch the floor. is this a defect or am i missing something essential to toilet design?

I don't picture what you are are saying. Could you post a photo that shows the potential defect?

FLANGE: Oh it sits flush with the floor and so the top is only the amount it is thick, i just measured, its .5inch thick flange

I don't know if there is set maximum. If you wanted to see what interference there is, you could use some modeling clay as a test gauge for clearance or interference during your trial fittings. I am not a pro, and these may not be efficient ideas.

1/2 inch is a height that I would not feel confident is a problem nor confident it is not a problem. With such a high flange, I do feel you would not be choosing a non-wax solution that compresses the product. https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/wax-free-toilet-seal might be an alternative if your toilet base is perfectly clean. That would allow you to add shims without danger of un-smushing wax. It uses an adhesive that will not work if the toilet has any wax residue. I feel the practiced professional is going to be able to put wax on without having to re-position, but with less practice that would be harder.

When the toilet is level during your test fittings, does part of the base touch the floor? If so, that tells me that shims would be enough without modifying the flange further or replacing the toilet.

picture from https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/toilet-flange-height.51976/

 

[urville]

I have the korky waxless.

This is the piece

 

[urville]

Here it is

 

[Reach4]

I have the korky waxless.

This is the piece

With your higher than normal closet flange, I don't think the Korky, or Saniseal waxless seals will be good for you.

 

[urville]

So i have that or wax. I bought it based on earlier recomendadtion in the thread. Is this not valid from the instructions?

the part that is causing the slight difference is as pictured here

 

[urville]

cautionary note

 

[urville]

very similar to my flange

 

[urville]

this is the extent of the shim needed, basically just the tip to get rid of the wobblle and its definitley from that support piece of china after much investigation and deduction

think i am ok?

 

[Reach4]

Sounds like you have analyzed it right. That "this" thing seems to show scuff marks from hitting the floor.

If the toilet is level, does either the front or the back touch the floor, or does the toilet neither touches the front or back to the floor when held level?

 

[urville]

it rest towards the back. i can then just firmly shove these slivers in under the front and it wont move at all

 

[Reach4]

Use your level for fore, aft, left, and right. If you don't have a long enough level, it is time to get one.

Shims are little wedges sold in packages. You might be better with the composit ones in the windows and doors department rather than the ones labeled for toilet use. You cut or break the protruding part after things are in place and the toilet is bolted down. From the photo, it is not clear that you are picturing a wedge. If they are tapered and are the right thickness, those should be good. If you wanted to make your own shims from uniform thickness material, you would have to taper them somehow, such as with a belt sander. Making shims is way too much work when they are cheap and readily available. They might be spread into 3 different locations in a big store, and they are not going to be the same in every department. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....led-not-flush-to-the-floor-in-the-front.41025

After everything else is right, you will apply acrylic caulk, to dress things up and keep water from going under the toilet. Many only caulk the front 90% to allow a leak from the toilet flange to be noticed. I use masking tape because I am not very practiced with the caulk use. Search for Polyseamseal on this forum for discussion of caulking toilet bases.