Pro-OX Iron Filters

[Alcan]

Is anyone familiar with the Pro-OX iron filters.
They use Manganese Dioxide filter media.

I have well water that has been tested for iron only and the test showed 0.03 ppm iron.
I realize that this is not much, but still the toilet and sinks show a light staining.
No idea what other minerals might be causing this besides iron.

Would this be a good filter to correct this ?
Was looking at the .75 cu.ft. model from cleanwaterstore.com for $699.00
Is that a good price for this type of filter ?

 

[ditttohead]

I would avoid that unit. Go with a system that uses Catalox light.

We would also need more information on your water to help assist with a proper treatment method.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Alcan]

I would avoid that unit. Go with a system that uses Catalox light.

We would also need more information on your water to help assist with a proper treatment method.

I was just reading that manganese also causes a light brown staining.
Assuming it is manganese, would the Pro-OX work ?

What is Catalox light ?
Or instead of a Manganese Dioxide media filter, would a water softener work better ?

( I have practically zero knowledge on water filters, please educate me.)

As to further testing the water, the local county agent will only test for iron.
Where can I get a complete test ?

 

[Reach4]

I ordered a KARkit H2OAssure K60 test for $50 with them paying postage both ways. http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/

This kit tests for iron, hardness , pH, and much more. If you have a shallow well, you might want to go for something more comprehensive. That K60 looks like it will fill the needs of the majority.

It sure looks like a good value. Sure beats $150. See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/attention-dittohead-and-all-others.62128/ There have not been prior discussions of this kit here before, but I feel good about it.

The test vials, the methodology, the packaging, the system all feel good, but I only just today mailed out the filled sample kit.

I hope to get results this week after ByteMe.

(Correction: hardness is shown directly)

 

[ByteMe]

Whomever has the most complex/ dificult (most expensive to treat) water loses!

 

[Alcan]

What is Catalox light and how is it better than Manganese Dioxide in removing iron and manganese ?

Is there a better filter than the Pro-OX in the same price range ?

Or, is a water softener a better solution than a Manganese Dioxide filter for removing iron and manganese ?

Appreciate any help, don't want to order the wrong thing.

Thanks,
Alcan

 

[Reach4]

http://www.reskem.com/pdf/catalox discusses Catalox which is mostly manganese dioxide. It requires a high backwash rate.

Another media-- Katalox Light-- is cool
http://www.watchwater.com/DOWNLOADS/data/BR/katalox_light_BR.pdf

A water softener is not an efficient way to remove significant iron. That would require regular cleaning of the resin and takes away from the softening capacity.

 

[Reach4]

delete

 

[ditttohead]

Catalox light is a clinoptilolite base media (filter ag+, turbidex, micro-z, zeolite, nextsand etc) coated and impregnated with 10% manganese dioxide ore (Pyrolox, filox, mangox etc).

It is considered a hybrid media that gets the benefits of the high manganese dioxide ore content with the high turbidity reduction and easy backwashing of clinoptilolite.

 

[Alcan]

OK, here are the results from my water test:

pH: 6.8 ph
Iron: 0.2 mg/L
Manganese: 0.5 mg/L
Hardness: 8 GPG
Hardness: 136.8 mg/L
TDS: 243 mg/L
ORP: 337 mV

Based on these results and a usage of 1500 gal/month, what would be the best system for me ?
Some say a water softener only system.
Some say a hybrid ferrilite/softener system.
Some say just get the Whirlpool water softener that Lowes sells.

1500 gal/month may not sound like much, but that is what we used
over the last 13 years that we were on city water.

Just want something that will work at a reasonable price.

Main goal is to be able to wash white clothes without staining,
and to reduce or eliminate staining on toilet, tub, sinks.

Alcan

 

[Reach4]

I think a 3/4 cuft softener using Morton Rust Remover pellets in the brine tank should do the job that you describe with your moderate iron. I am not a pro.

Most people would recommend a softener with a separate brine tank. They are more repairable, and they are what more people are familiar with in how to set up. Some people are very happy with their all-in-one-cabinet softeners.

The Ferrilite+softener would be better, but much more expensive. However if you had additional water defects such as sulfur smells or arsenic etc, the Ferrilite backwashing filter would be super.

 

[ditttohead]

The manganese is the real problem, not the iron. Compensated hardness for .5 manganese will be in the 5- 15 GPG range, potentially double the actual hardness. Thiscan more than triple the salt usage since higher dosing salting should be done when iron or manganese reduction is attempted with the softener. A manganese/iron reduction system ahead of the softener would be a much better solution. Your main advantage for using a softener for manganese reduction in this application is the low pH. While traditional methods of manganese reduction prefer higher levels of pH, using a softener prefers lower pH which lessens the resin fouling. I would highly suggest a chemical drip system (cheap and simple) for the brine tank to lower the brines pH even further for longer resin life.

 

[Reach4]

Purolite, leading resin maker, has a premium resin, SST-60, that they say is better in the face of iron an manganese. I don't find a lot published by resin makers about iron and manganese treatment with softener resin, but I find this:
http://www.purolite.com/Customized/...roliteProductsManagement/Resources/rid_70.pdf I see that the last line says "All of the above either use a high grade of salt that have a built in resin cleaner, or are treated annually with a resin cleaner specific for iron."

While the premium price is not warranted that often, this may a very good case for it. In page 2 of the PDF they have some example numbers, but they are not as direct as translating into something easy to act on in doing calculations. It is the best I found. Many softener sellers offer SST resin as an upgrade.

Still, to leave your options open if you decide to put in just a softener, consider leaving room to put in a backwashing manganese+iron+etc filter before the softener. Your 0.5 manganese is very high: it is 10 times the secondary MCL. http://water.epa.gov/drink/contaminants/secondarystandards.cfm (Secondary means it is not a health problem, but it is a problem as described in that link. It seems odd that you have rust colors predominantly rather than black or brown.