Anode rods Again :)

[JerryR]

I read up on waterheaterrescue dot com all about anode rods but still not sure what to use.

Resistive, non-resistive, Aluminum, Magnesium Aluminum/Zinc ect. Not interested in powered anode because there's not a 120v outlet nearby.

I have a Home Depot supplied GE /Rheem built, 50 gallon electric water heater. Model, GE50M06AAG

I read the GE comes with Magnesium rods installed when manufactured, but don't know if they are resistive or not.

What do you all recommend?

 

[Reach4]

Most people would recommend doing nothing and replacing the water heater when it starts to leak or 10 years whichever comes first. :-^ (50% tongue-in cheek and 90% true. )

For an answer to your actual question, that would depend on sulfur situation. It also depends on how big a deal it is to swap the anode again. When you replace the anode, I would use teflon tape and only 10 or 15 ft-lbs of torque. Expect the teflon tape to get cut through to still get good electrical contact. Pulling the anode when the water heater is new may or may not require an impact wrench.

If you have no sulfur problem, and if changing an anode again in the future is not a big deal, for maximum water heater life with a rod, I would go magnesium no resistor. That also avoids the question about aluminum added to your water. Not using high torque and using Teflon tape makes checking/changing the anode in the future much easier.

On the other hand, maybe you might want to do an electrical project where you add several outlets to your utility room.

 

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[JerryR]

I pulled the Anode just to take a look. Used a 1 1/6" socket w/1/2" ratchet and a 3 foot pipe for leverage. Had to hold the water heater from rotating even though I only drained a few Quarts of water.

It's definitely Magnesium via the telltale hump on top of hex head.

I reinstalled it with 6 wraps of teflon tape and a little teflon pipe sealant. I tightened it snug, probably about 15-20 Ft/pds. turned water back on and confirmed no seeping or leaks.. I also checked it with an ohmmeter for ground continuity.

Here's a picture of it. It looks like it's doing its job. This water heater only has about 17 months in service and this is the original anode. It's probably only about 25% spent with 75% remaining.

I have an new Rheem Magnesium SP11524C anode on order. They are cheap enough ($12.95 ) and now it will be easier to remove since it was not over-torqued.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

you ought to wait another year or two then change it out if you so wish....

its got a lot of life left on it... and it sounds like yours will come out easy

yes...they dont cost much money

 

[JerryR]

you ought to wait another year or two then change it out if you so wish....


its got a lot of life left on it... and it sounds like yours will come out easy


yes...they dont cost much money

Of course you are right BUT since I had ordered a new one I just replaced it now. I just didn’t feel comfortable leaving that nasty looking anode rod in the heater.


Coincidentally, my next door neighbor's water heater flooded his garage last week. I warned him that he was taking a chance being it was 18 years old and it didn’t look too good.


Well, It must have failed early in the morning after he left for work. His wife called him to tell him water pressure was low as she was taking a shower to get ready to leave town. When he got home the water was flowing out from the garage door.


I helped him R&R the heater. Started at 6 PM and done by 8:30. That included picking up a new one from Home Depot.


When we rolled the empty tank on the ground is sounded like it was full of rocks.