Pressure Reducing Valve

[PBP]

Hi,

I was doing some research on low flow and I noticed that most PRVs have a strainer that you are supposed to clean out once in a while.

I've located my PRV (just after the meter box). The tag says F1201C pressure reducing valve, CSA B-356, size 3/4", range 25-75, max temp 180F, max inlet 300PSI. This is some made in Taiwan PRV, not the more common Watts, etc. brands.

After Googling all sorts of PRV pictures, I still cannot figure out if the nut at the bottom of the PRV is the strainer or something else entirely (see picture, yellow arrow ). I want to clean the strainer if it has one, but don't want to open the nut only to find out it's not a strainer and I've totally compromised the PRV. Is anyone familiar with this PRV and can tell me definitively if that nut opens up a strainer I can clean?

That aside, I am just realizing through my research that my PRV was not installed very well. Apparently there is supposed to be 2 union joins so the PRV can be replaced easily if needed. How would a plumber replace this one? Would they have to cut the PVC connection? If I ever replace the PRV, can I ask that 2 union joints be put in? Is there a union join for the PVC connection side or am I stuck with this configuration?

Last question. The PRV is located outside in a covered box, but should I worry about it freezing?

Thanks so much for any expertise or insight you can provide.

 

[Gary Swart]

Can't help you with the strainer question, but that bolt sticking out of the top is the pressure adjuster. As far as the replacement question, since the inlet side is PVC, what is the problem with cutting that side. In my admittedly limited PRV experience, they come with one union.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

Not all PRVs have strainer, and I do not think yours does, but they seldom trap any significant amount of material, if any. Also, there is supposed to be ONE union on the installation, on the outlet side, and few come with two unless someone purchases the second one.

 

[Valveman]

If that PRV has a screen it will probably be around the cartridge that you would need to take out from unscrewing the top. If you are getting enough flow through the line, I would not worry about the screen.

Every time I need to replace something like this the unions won't come lose and I end up having to cut the pipe anyway.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Having the union on one side seems to be the most common set-up, though I like the two union ones. That being said, it's most helpful if the dimensions of the replacement unit are the same,(some are longer than others and may require extra work to replace.) Also, once you break the union loose it's helpful if you can just unscrew the prv from the male adapter on the pipe. Often, the device is too close to a wall or joist to allow you to turn it all the way around. One big PITAss, is the fact that the threads on the union nut sometimes have been changed; then you gotta get the torch out and boil some water. There is a Shark-bite PRV that I've used a couple of times. I did not use the push feature, but did install it using union parts from the bottom of the bucket, so to speak. Worked nicely.

 

[Reach4]

http://www.cashacme.com/product-category/pressure-regulating-valves/ has some PRVs such as EB25 that use a cartridge with the works inside. Replacing the working parts should not involve removing the housing. At least that is how I think it is supposed to work.

 

[Dj2]

Pressure reduce valves come with 2 unions, 1 union or no union, like the one you have.

To do maintenance on this PRV, you will have to remove it, because it doesn't look like there a lot of space down there.

If the PRV is malfunctioning, I would replace it, and won't even bother. The time to maintain it will cost you more than a new valve. Plus, if it's an imported valve, finding parts will add to the costs.

 

[PBP]

Thanks everyone for your responses. It looks like I shouldn't worry too much about how the PRV is currently connected. How about freezing? Is that a concern?

Yes I was having flow issues when multiple fixtures were being used (sudden problem in 5 year old house). I have about 60 PSI (measured with a gauge) with 80 max spike during a 48 hour period. I would flush and the faucet would have a temporary drop (significant) in flow; the gauge would drop by 20, but recover once the toilet tank filled. Same thing with different fixtures around the house.

Don't laugh. Since then I have wiggled the PRV pressure nut (turned it one turn higher, tapped the PRV lightly with a hammer (thought to loosen any hardwater buildup), turned off the shut-off in the house and opened my hot and cold taps (tapped the thermal expansion tank on my electric water heater to make sure it was hollow). I was planning to clean the screen in the PRV if I could determine that it had one. And last resort would have been to replace the PRV.

But, lo, for the days since the activities above, flow is good (knock wood) with 60 PSI still and 80 max spike, hopefully one of the things I did fixed it. Or the plumbing gods got such a kick out of what I was doing they decided to cut me a break.