Herb's Bathroom Remodel

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porkweez

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Hi guys. After gutting out old drain lines below slab, it's time to reroute for new placement of toilet and fiberglass tub/shower unit. Please tell me if the plumbing here (dry fit) is ok before I glue it. Thanks!

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Reach4

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Should his trap arm maybe be more horizontal?
 

Reach4

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I was thinking about the tub-shower drain trap.
 

porkweez

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I think I can swing the p-trap pieces/arm a little more horizontal if needed. The initial fitting tried to keep a bit of slope like the main runs. Additional question: after gluing, should I refill the hole with the dirt I pulled out, or use something else? I've heard of folks using sand or pebbles, not sure what's best. The floor around the commode will receive concrete to match what's there and tiled over. I think I'll leave the area around the p-trap and vent without concrete in case future work is needed, since they're hidden in wall or under tub.
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, if your dry fitting is exact, it is unlikely that things will fit when you glue them together since the cement will melt the plastic and allow you to insert the pipe into the fitting maybe an extra 1/2" or more per fitting. They are designed to be fully inserted, but that is impossible or at least very difficult when dry.
 

porkweez

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Thanks, guys. Another question: I'll be installing a fiberglass one-piece tub/shower in a space that is sheetrocked. I know that the tub/shower unit is typically installed directly to studs. Is there any harm in leaving the sheetrock and installing the unit, or is it necessary to remove the sheetrock first?
 

Terry

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Thanks, guys. Another question: I'll be installing a fiberglass one-piece tub/shower in a space that is sheetrocked. I know that the tub/shower unit is typically installed directly to studs. Is there any harm in leaving the sheetrock and installing the unit, or is it necessary to remove the sheetrock first?

You will need at least 60" from end to end. Most of the time, that means removing drywall and going to the framing.
 

Jadnashua

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Many of the surrounds have a flange that is designed to sit underneath the drywall, on the studs and may not look great slapped on top of it.
 

porkweez

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My idea is to still drywall over the existing drywall above/around the shower to cover the flange, kind of a 'laminate' effect, exactly the same as if mounting to studs. So the only difference is saving time and effort of tearing down all the existing drywall. The space the tub/shower is going into is actually 4" too wide, so even if I leave the sheetrock, I'll be addinf 2x4's, etc at the foot end to have something for the flanges to screw to.
Mainly, I'm wondering if leaving the drywall creates a big problem... like mold growth or something, or have people left it without issue.
 

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Jadnashua

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FWIW, greenboard is no longer specified for use in wet areas in most codes. While the surface layer is moisture resistant, the penetrations used to attach it and edges aren't, and that essentially makes it the same functionally as plain drywall. IN a dry area, with a good coat of paint, that is all you need. The coating on greenboard also tends to be less robust, and especially on a place like a ceiling, your supports should be at 12" verses the more common 16" OC, or it tends to sag over time. For those reasons, it is no longer allowed when in wet areas.
 

Reach4

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Are you saying that porkweez would be better off to add conventional drywall under his shower surround than to add green board under his shower surround?
 

Jadnashua

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A surround, installed properly, is waterproof. Therefore, the area is dry. Many surrounds are installed directly on the studs...there are some (generally less expensive ones) that require some backing since they are flimsy. No real benefit to using moisture resistant gypsum board. Code does NOT allow it in wet areas anymore, nor does it allow drywall, but at least several companies (Schluter and Laticrete) for example allow it as the base backer for use of their waterproof membranes IN a tiled shower (tile is NOT waterproof, but their membranes, properly installed like any surround, is). In fact, it is Schluter's preferred backing as it is available in bigger sheets than cbu and accepts thinset really well.

Once you've put holes in your greenboard (moisture resistant drywall), IF it got wet, it's no better than drywall, which is why it is no longer allowed. You MUST put holes in it to anchor it to the wall or ceiling, so then, it is no longer moisture resistant...if there IS water, it will get into the board and create problems.

Wet area, cbu, or use an accepted method to cover regular drywall with waterproofing. A surround, at least the way I look at it (and code agrees), is waterproof. Paint it well, make sure water can't pool on it. Final overriding requirement...follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.
 

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If he puts in one or the other, which should he choose?
 
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