Laundry tub studs

[flyingskydiver]

I am wanting to put in a laundry sink next to our washer and dryer. I know that I can tap into the PEX cold and hot water lines for the studs, however, the drainage is where I do not know how to tap into on the design due to the venting on the opposite side. I have attached a picture of the current configuration, where the venting is on the right of the drainage, but need the studs to be on the left, as highlighted in red. Any direction and picture of how to achieve this would be great. Thank you.

 

[Sjsmithjr]

How long is the existing washing machine stand pipe? Also, I believe you mean to say "stub out". : )

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WJcandee]

It wouldn't be pretty, and I don't normally give this kind of advice, since I am not a pro, but I will take a crack at it if nobody else has a more elegant solution (which they likely will). You could connect your sink P-trap into a san-T in a vertical line basically between the Os in the box in your drawing. That drain line would run vertically down, and then run across underneath the trap for your washer standpipe and connect to the vertical drain with a San-T below the place that your washer standpipe connects to it. Then, for your vent, you would run up from your sink P-trap's San-T connection and then across to connect to the existing vent at a point at least 6" above the overflow rims of the fixtures on that floor.

All this assumes that the vertical pipe in your existing layout is a dry vent (i.e. no pipes upstairs are draining into it). And that you have enough room to give the proper slope to the horizontal run across to the drain. And that you can do this without compromising the structural integrity of those vertical wooden studs.

I was looking to see if I could find a picture of such an arrangement, and I think that's somewhat-but-not-quite what's going on in the center photo at the bottom of page 10 of Bert Polk's plumbing guide, which you should read thoroughly. (I.e. I think that to the right and out of the shot, there is a connection to a sink or something under that window, where the drain for that fixture goes down and across to the left, and the vent for that fixture goes up and across to the left.)
Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County

Also have a look at this guide for homeowners:
http://www.klickitatcounty.org/documentcenter/view/103

 

[flyingskydiver]

How long is the existing washing machine stand pipe? Also, I believe you mean to say "stub out". : )

It is about 32 inches.

 

[Terry]

The standpipe can be as short as 18"
Most of us would raise the washer santee, which would allow a 2" line tie in below that.
The laundry sink uses a 1.5" trap and vent. The vent can tie back to the other vent above 42", and more likely higher than that.
No problem supplying hot and cold using the washer supply lines off the PEX.

 

[flyingskydiver]

The standpipe can be as short as 18"
Most of us would raise the washer santee, which would allow a 2" line tie in below that.
The laundry sink uses a 1.5" trap and vent. The vent can tie back to the other vent above 42", and more likely higher than that.
No problem supplying hot and cold using the washer supply lines off the PEX.

Terry,

Thank you for the information. Is it possible for you to draw what you would do on a piece of paper, take a snap of it with your phone, and attach it to this thread. I apologize as I am having some difficulty visualizing it. I would appreciate it. Nothing fancy. Thank you.

 

[WJcandee]

It's basically similar to the picture that I told you to look at, except he's saying to raise the standpipe's connection and san t to leave a place to tie the other line into.

In other words, the standpipe can be as short as 18". So, you can leave the box where it is, but raise up the san-T where the washer is tying in, and shorten the standpipe (i.e. cut some of the bottom off it's length) as long as it's at least 18". Run the horizontal line from there to the newly-positioned San-T. Then tie in a 1.5" drain line from your sink into a San-T below the level of the new washer San-T. Then, run a vent upwards from your sink and then tie it in to the existing vent.

We don't normally ask Terry to draw stuff. If he does that, he's really doing you a favor. But just take a look at that picture in the Bert Polk guide. It's very similar to that.

 

[flyingskydiver]

It's basically similar to the picture that I told you to look at, except he saying to raise the standpipe connection and san t to tie the other line into. We don't normally ask Terry to draw stuff

Thank you. I understand now. On the venting, would it be preferable to go at an angle to tie to the other pipe or go straight across? If at an angle, what is the suggested angle?

 

[Terry]

Any horizontal pipe should have a 2% grade.
That's a rise of 1/4" per foot.

 

[WJcandee]

I think Terry is telling you the angle to run the drain or the "straight-across" vent, because you do want any water that makes its way into the vent to drain. You can see that there is just a little bit of pitch on the horizontal vent pipes in the Bert Polk photos. But if you are asking a broader question about vertical versus horizontal, you can run your vent up and then turn it 90-degrees and run "horizontal", or you can run it up and then use a 45-degree bend to run it at an angle to where you tie it in. It's really up to you, and you can see from the Polk guide photos that a lot of pros just go straight across. However, going 45-degrees does give you the advantage of more angle to drain any water that gets in there, but it's not necessary.

 

[Cwhyu2]

Rough drawing.Photo did not up load will try again later