Pipe leaking when flushed on old fashioned toilet

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Frankie81

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water leaking from pipe in toilet. spewing only when flushed. See attached picture. What are my options, knowing that in about 6 months I am renovating the entire bathroom?
 

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Dj2

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The simplest idea is to replace the black rubber washer between the toilet and the metal washer. I can't see in the picture, but it can also be the metal pipe going into the toilet.
However, if your renovation plan includes a new toilet, no matter what kind, why not replace the toilet now and save looking around for the right size rubber washer or other parts?
 

Frankie81

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Thanks dj2. It's a whole process with building codes here to replace bathroom appliances so I am going to do it all at once. But, the black washer should fix the issue even though the water is actually coming out on top of that where the bent pipe meets the threads?
 

Reach4

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I am not a plumber, but I suspect that the washer and seal are missing. I suspect that somebody just put some goop in there to hold the water in. Your picture is pretty good, but you might try doing a macro closeup of the area where the water comes out.

If my suspicion is correct, I would look to tape. I would use silicone tape, because I think it is the best for this situation. And I have silicone tape. That tape only sticks to itself. It is flexible. I would wrap tightly, stretching the first layers as I wound the tape. You want the fused tape to be under tension to resist some water pressure. The pressure should not be too much at that spot, but the fact that it gushes now indicates there is some pressure during flushes.

You might top that with another tape to hold the silicone tape in place for 24 hours or more while the silicone fuses together. You might choose to cover that with something else anyway if you, for example, used red silicone tape.

Expect to pay a fair amount for the better thicker stuff.
 

Frankie81

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Thanks and here attached is the macro picture of exactly where it is leaking:
 

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Terry

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The correct fix is the replace the bend to the spud and using a new slip joint nut and washer.
It looks like it has been "gooed" up previously.
 

Dj2

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OK, the new picture is much clearer, and it looks like the metal bend has rusted away.
A good repair will include all new parts, not just a new bend, as Terry mentioned.
 

Frankie81

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Thank you Terry. I was going to try that but was just worried that for some reason the toilet spud is not perfectly aligned with where the bend would be which I think is what caused the problem to begin with.
 

WJcandee

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When you renovate, it would be cool if you got the toilet actually perpendicular to the wall, and the piping to run straight into it. You will presumably be replacing the valve as well, or at least the piping, so getting everything lined up nicely shouldn't be a huge issue.

Don't be too quick to abandon the idea of a flushometer toilet. (The flushometer is the valve.) Your older NYC building (I presume) has the water pressure and pipe size sufficient to make that kind of toilet work, and they do a good job of flushing stuff. There are some nifty auto-flush flushometer valves that you could install, and there is a higher degree of design in these kinds of toilets now as well. It may be you want to go to a toilet with a tank that refills and smaller pipes, because among other things that's a quieter setup, but there is something satisfying about not having to wait for the tank to refill to flush again. That's why this kind of toilet was/is used in commercial settings where there is a good bit of traffic.

If you want something different, and are going to be pulling down walls and ripping up floors anyway, have a look at the Toto line. Everything from the entry-level Entrada to the top of the line Neorest flushes amazingly-well and looks good. You don't get that kind of consistently-excellent performance across-the-brand when buying other brands. The last thing you want to do is end up with some shwanky European toilet that you have to plunge every time you flush it. And don't pay retail for it. If you look online (including at Terry's prices above) you will see what a fair price for these things is, and it's a substantial discount off of what your designer is going to tell you it costs while he pockets the difference.

Depending upon where your place is and how big a reno is involved, I have a contractor that is used to working in Manhattan co-ops, and which the meticulous super in my buddy's UES co-op building now recommends because the work is done timely and properly and doesn't cause the super any brain damage, which is a big deal here in the city. I learned about him because he was the third guy my buddy hired after firing the previous two guys on a bathroom job when they left him with a partially-completed mess for weeks. Message me if you want the name.
 
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