I am not recommending that you pull your own pump.
After pump work, you will have junk in your water. You will want to pump for quite a while ( 2 to 24 or more hours?) after things go back together. This water should go out of the outdoor spigots that are not fed via filter or softener. This can be combined with the sanitizing maybe. I ran my recirculated water through a big cartridge filter . Most people will just do the flush onto the ground followed by the sanitizing.
After you or well pro changes the well, you should disinfect your well and plumbing.
http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/index.php/maintainance/disinfection-and-testing is my favorite procedure. You want to take steps to not expose your softener resin to a lot of chlorine, but you do want to get a little chlorine to the resin. You also want to minimize putting chlorine into the septic tank. Everything else, including your hot water heater, can take a fairly high chlorine level. So when you are getting chlorinated water into the water heater, you can run that outside to a ditch through a hose. When you feed water to the faucets in sinks, dishwasher, RO filter, washing machine, just do enough to get adequate levels of chlorine to those places, and stop running the water through those. When you are clearing out the chlorine the next day, run most of the chlorinated water to the ditch. I maybe over-worried.
If your casing is large enough, you can drop some of your chlorine down the casing pellets made for the purpose. The advantage is they sink to the bottom and hit the area below the circulation. I have a 4 inch casing with a 3.75 inch pump, so I could not drop the 3/8 inch pellets to the bottom. I used liquid chlorine bleach and hth brand "shock 'n swim" #3 (calcium hypochlorite 47.8%) granules, which is sold for pools. The granules are much smaller than the well pellets, but I hoped some of the granules might make it past my pump that is set down 140 ft. I compensated for not getting pellets to the bottom by circulating much longer. Once the circulation water is at high level chlorine, wash the sides of the casing and the pitless.
I would get some high-range chlorine test paper such as Hydrion Cm-240 Chlorine 10-200 PPM.
Consider some pH test paper such as Hydrion (O67) Urine & Saliva pH Paper 5.5-8.0. I found that it took a few seconds to get the color I expected rather than the right color being instantaneous. I did not test against standard solution however. The range is low enough to tell if you have added enough vinegar, and it is high enough to check common pH levels after the well has been purged of the chemicals. You can get by without the test papers, but I think it greatly improves the confidence that you have the right levels even reaching through the water heater to the faucets.
