Replacing CI and galvanized

[bondobob]

Im in the process of replacing the cast iron main line and all the rest of galvanized waste lines. I have a vented lavatory, with a tub that connects about 1 ft downstream. Then goes to main. Can I replace this setup identical (other than useing wyes insteat of tees) and be to modern code?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

As long as the left side is a properly vented lav drain, you should be good to go.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Im in the process of replacing the cast iron main line and all the rest of galvanized waste lines. I have a vented lavatory, with a tub that connects about 1 ft downstream. Then goes to main. Can I replace this setup identical (other than useing wyes insteat of tees) and be to modern code?View attachment 29015

Use a wye fitting with cleanout under the lav, and a wye for the tub.
If you look farther down the line to where it connects to cast, often it's a 2" hub with the 1.5" pipe leaded into the hub.
I sometimes, when I'm feeling like it, will remove that and using a rubber Fernco insert install a 2" pipe.
Normally if done from scratch, you would have 2" there.

 

[bondobob]

So I need to use 2" pipe from the tub to the main? Im tearing it all out, including the vent through the roof.

 

[Terry]

So I need to use 2" pipe from the tub to the main? Im tearing it all out, including the vent through the roof.

If you're tearing it out, go 2" for a tub or shower.
After the vent, the tub is 1.5"
A shower is 2"
The vent can be 1.5"

 

[bondobob]

Sounds good. I also currently have a kitchen sink on 1.5 and a sump on 1.5 running together. I was thinking I need to use a 4x3 wye at the main. Run a short 3" branch with seperate wyes. Probably 2 for sump and 1.5 for kitchen?

 

[Asktom]

2 for kitchen w/ 1.5 vent.

 

[bondobob]

Alright ive gotten the outside part done this weekend. can I use a "vent" 90º at the lav. Drain like pictured, or do I need to use a sanitary tee going down (yellow) 90 sweep, notch wall sanitee. 1.5 vent and 2 drain/wet vent

 

[bondobob]

I understand that I can mirror this, however I have to do this to code I am going to be inspected by the county. I just want to do it one time. Thanks

 

[Smooky]

You will need a sanitary tee. Go straight over from the sani-tee to where the sink will be located and come straight out the wall. Why are you changing the height of the trap arm and turning up 90 degrees before coming out the wall? That will not meet the code.
It should look something like this with ¼” per foot slope :
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....k-offset-use-90degree-bend-out-of-wall.35872/

 

[bondobob]

Smooky- that sweep/ drain is notched on the other side of the wall. I would like to still have a finished look with a trap adapter and a cover.
Im not changing the height. Where the current elbow is would be a sani-tee going down, a cap on top. Go down 6" or so sweep to the right then sani-t to vent/ drain.
I apologize for some of the stupid/obvious questions. I dont want to tear out the other wall if I dont have to.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

The drain in the wall cannot drop vertically unless you use a sanitary tee and re-vent back too the stack. You can duplicate the original piping, but cannot use a vent 90.

 

[bondobob]

Ok thank you for clarifying that for me

 

[bondobob]

This is what I have so far. The 3 inch throught the floor is toilet and vent will be 2 ft behind that. Is this acceptable or completely rediculous?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I see the toilet riser, but am unclear on where you intend to make the drain & vent connections.

 

[bondobob]

A few connections left riser on left is toilet. Riser on right is vent. To the right of the vent is lav. and tub. Kitchen is upstream on 3" branch and sump is closest to wall. Hope all is good

inspector coming out tomorrow.

 

[Reach4]

I suspect that you should have more supports.

What are the cleanout plugs? I am not seeing what I expected there.

 

[bondobob]

Pretty much done! may add more support later. After I get a flushing toilet