It looks as if your testing process took about 5-1/2 weeks.
You need a softener with your 23 grains of hardness before compensation for iron, manganese and general principles. It should be able to handle that level of iron and manganese, but if you put in a sulfur filter that also removed iron and manganese before the softener, that would be better.
Silica levels are not too bad. My water test did not even test for that. Silica can cause spotting that you cannot remove, but I think the levels have to be a lot higher to be a problem. I keep distilled water in a spray bottle for final rinsing of some things including eyeglasses. A gallon, which costs under $1, lasts me over a year for the spraying.
I don't know how to address
sulfate. Maybe don't address it directly. My test did not test for sulfate.
http://water.epa.gov/drink/contaminants/unregulated/sulfate.cfm I expect that it accompanies hydrogen sulfide (H2S), which you or others can smell but is not normally tested in a mail-away test. Going to a powered anode for the water heater is one way to help prevent sulfate from being converted to H2S in the water heater. Actually your well sanitizing should help that since SRB will be killed in that process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfate-reducing_bacteria http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/index.php/maintainance/disinfection-and-testing
I now have a Centaur Carbon filter that does well with sulfur smell plus iron. I would probably go with Katalox Light media if I were making the choice today. I also have a powered anode.
Nice pH.