Replacing/repairing hose bib--cant remove stem

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superkaz

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Hi all. Thanks for reading my first post. As a new homeowner, I have a list a mile long, and this is one of them.

Anyway, I have a leaky hose bib, so now that its warm, I figured, ok, time to fix it. Im no plumbing expert (clearly), but I assumed that I'd just remove the packing nut, and remove the stem to get to the washer. Well, I've backed off the packing nut (picture attached), but can't get the stem out. It neither screws out (seems to hit a positive stop) or pull out. Any suggestions?

I'd also be happy (actually prefer) to replace the entire assembly, but Im not sure if its threaded or sweat on, and if its sweat, I cant get to it as there is no access panel in the wall behind. Is there any indication as to which it is by looking at it? Thanks all
 

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Jadnashua

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That appears to be a frost-free silcock. If it's leaking, does it do that all of the time, or only when you turn the water on? If it only leaks when you have the water on, you may need to replace the entire valve. Regardless, the actual sealing portion of the valve is 6-10" or so back along a long shaft inside the house so it won't freeze.
 

superkaz

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Have you tried to unscrew the square nut behind the packing nut?
Is it leaking around the stem or out the spout?

Yours might have a longer valve stem than the one in this link but the video should help:
http://www.renovateyourworld.com/Ho...pping_Outdoor_Faucet-Faucets-S2659-video.html

I actually hadn't. I assumed that they were flats to counter-hold the bib as you tightened the packing nut. Maybe I should have tried that. :oops:

To answer the other question, it is leaking out the spout.
 

superkaz

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That appears to be a frost-free silcock. If it's leaking, does it do that all of the time, or only when you turn the water on? If it only leaks when you have the water on, you may need to replace the entire valve. Regardless, the actual sealing portion of the valve is 6-10" or so back along a long shaft inside the house so it won't freeze.

It leaks all the time, so long as the supply from inside the house is on.
 

Smooky

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You should be able to tell how it was installed from under the house. You should be able to cut the pipe and remove it with out too much damage if you want to do that. I think I would just try to repair what you have and forget about replacing it.
 

superkaz

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You should be able to tell how it was installed from under the house. You should be able to cut the pipe and remove it with out too much damage if you want to do that. I think I would just try to repair what you have and forget about replacing it.

I wish it were that easy. The pipe goes from the joist space in the unfinished basement, takes a 90 degree up through the subfloor and into the exterior wall cavity in the laundry room, where ( I assume) it takes another 90 to go outside. NO access panel to be found. I suppose I could cut one in, but I didnt want to if I didnt have to.
 

hj

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You HAVE to take it apart by removing the piece with the square sides. The stem could NEVER come through the opening under the packing nut. The only way to tell if it screwed or sweated is to either check the model number or look at the connection.
 

Terry

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I wish it were that easy. The pipe goes from the joist space in the unfinished basement, takes a 90 degree up through the subfloor and into the exterior wall cavity in the laundry room, where ( I assume) it takes another 90 to go outside. NO access panel to be found. I suppose I could cut one in, but I didnt want to if I didnt have to.

Normally we cut and find the back of the frostfree hosebib and change out the entire faucet.
Fluidmaster makes a nice 7" access panel to cover the hole, and is handy for the next time you replace the faucet.
 

superkaz

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You HAVE to take it apart by removing the piece with the square sides. The stem could NEVER come through the opening under the packing nut. The only way to tell if it screwed or sweated is to either check the model number or look at the connection.
So I tried counter holding against the spigot, and turning the flats counter clockwise, and cant get the darn thing to budge--and I'm not a little guy. I worry that if I go with more force, I'll torque the copper behind it even with a counter hold. We are sure that this is how it disassembles? Next up would be either a torch (which I wouldn't really care for as it looks like the po painted the thing) or my 800 ft lb impact wrench. Should I just do this and be done? Or is there something else I should consider?

ps. Thanks to all for weighing in thus far :)
 

Reach4

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Do you have access to the inside of a second spigot? They were probably attached the same.

Ideally you could turn the whole thing CCW from outside, and screw in a new spigot of the same length. That's not going to work if the hidden connection is soldered or if the spigot is not screwed into a fitting that is not nicely mounted.

Do you have neighbors with houses built at the same time by the same builder? Maybe look around and see if somebody has replaced a spigot and has experience to share.

Not a pro.
 
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