Water Pressure Issues - Well System

[BoilerMakerRay]

I have intermittent water pressure on my well system. The water will run normally for 4-5 minutes heavy use(shower/laundry) and then cut off completely. When this happens the gauge on the pressure tank reads 50-60 psi. There will be no water pressure at any faucet. The pressure gauge slowly bleeds down to 35psi and then the well pump kicks on. After that I have water pressure throughout the house(I'm assuming the tank + well is giving me pressure)

My guess is there's a blockage that won't allow water past unless I have 60+psi but I can't figure out where and why the problem happens the same every time. Why wouldn't the blockage eventually be pushed thru...

 

[Reach4]

I have intermittent water pressure on my well system. The water will run normally for 4-5 minutes heavy use(shower/laundry) and then cut off completely. When this happens the gauge on the pressure tank reads 50-60 psi. There will be no water pressure at any faucet. The pressure gauge slowly bleeds down to 35psi and then the well pump kicks on. After that I have water pressure throughout the house(I'm assuming the tank + well is giving me pressure)

My guess is there's a blockage that won't allow water past unless I have 60+psi but I can't figure out where and why the problem happens the same every time. Why wouldn't the blockage eventually be pushed thru...

One blockage that would explain this is in the line from the water line to the pressure gauge and the pressure switch. The scenario is that you run out of water, but the pressure switch and gauge still are looking at the trapped water that is held by the clog. I would suggest cleaning out the connection shared by the pressure gauge and pressure switch.

 

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[BoilerMakerRay]

One blockage that would explain this is in the line from the water line to the pressure gauge and the pressure switch. The scenario is that you run out of water, but the pressure switch and gauge still are looking at the trapped water that is held by the clog. I would suggest cleaning out the connection shared by the pressure gauge and pressure switch.

Thanks. I'll try this and let you know. Probably not until saturday though...

 

[Valveman]

Another possibility is that the gauge is bad, and 35 really means zero pressure. If there is no water coming out the faucets the pressure is zero. If this is the case I would guess the overload in the motor is tripping. These will automatically reset themselves in a couple of minutes and the water will come back on until it happens again.

Remove the pressure gauge. If it still says 35 when it is in your hand, the gauge is bad and probably the pump is as well.

 

[LLigetfa]

I think Reach4 is spot on, that the small tube shared between the gauge and the switch is clogged. Of course the gauge can still be off. Usually the minerals that clog up the tube also get into the gauge and under the diaphragm of the switch.

Both the gauge and the switch are inexpensive, so after rodding out the tube, put it back together with new. If it turns out to be the pump, then bust open the piggy bank.

 

[BoilerMakerRay]

Success! Thanks for the suggestions guys. The small pipe under the switch was probably %95 blocked. There was also blockage in the other small opening...not sure what its call but just to the left of the red valve.

For future reference my steps in diagnosing this(forgive my terms if they aren't technical):

Turned off power to the switch and well pump.
Bled water out of system(gauge still showed 35psi)

At this point I figured the gauge was functioning because I had already watched it switch on and off at 40/60. The switch is a 40/60.

Then I hooked a house up to the valve on the bottom left and I figured the 35 psi would push out more water. I opened the valve and the pressure didn't move. Then I turned the nozzle above that and the pressure immediately dropped to 0.

So then I knew there was a blockage in the small pipe below the switch. I removed it and sure enough, packed with reddish brown sediment. It came out easily enough with a long screw. I put it all back together turned on the power and watched it function correctly.

I know I should have cleaned it out a little better but I will probably replace that entire setup if I have issues again. The reddish brown sediment could be rust coming from those connections...

Thanks again for your suggestions!

 

[Reach4]

Nice.

If you don't have a backwashing iron filter, you might want to consider one. It would not have helped this situation because the iron filter goes after the pressures switch and pressure tank. But it would make the water taste better and it would make cleaning better. Consider a system using Katalox Light media. That is an expensive media, but it is good for maybe 8 years. It also removes sulfur and some other stuff. It goes before your softener, leaving less for your softener to do other than softening.

Yes, it is an outlay, but remember that others are paying monthly water bills that you are not.

 

[Craigpump]

Hopefully you will replace the nipples and cross with brass. You should also put in a pressure relief valve...