Sub Panel install

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Brettd65

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Just the average diy homeowner my home was built in 78 and has 200 amp service on the main cuttler hammer box, both ground and neutral go to one bar and is properly grounded via grounding rod(local electrician said that was normal for older homes) my question is to ask if I have everything lined out for install Of a sub panel. Im looking to purchase an eaton 100 amp service box and run 8-2 off the main box on a 50 amp breaker then properly ground the box with an 8 ft grounding rod and #6 wire as a sub panel should have its own ground, im concerned does the neautral need to be dead or tied into the ground im not running any 220 off this sub panel strictly 110 outlets for my garage.
 

Speedy Petey

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Wow, a bit hard to read. Please take this as the constructive criticism that it is: Write in sentences with proper punctuation and capitalization.

Ok, several problems with your plan.
-In any case 8/2 is NOT acceptable for a 120/240V sub-panel. You need a neutral and an equipment ground run with the hot conductors. For a sun-panel it makes absolutely no sense to run just a 120V feeder. For not much more money run X/3 cable and you will double your capacity and have the future capability to run 240V loads.
-#8 NM or UF cable is NOT acceptable for a 50A feeder. You'd need #6 and this will allow you to run up to a 60A feeder.
-The ground rod is NOT for an equipment ground, so it has NOTHING to do with the bare wire run with the circuit.
-The neutral in a sub-panel is now always isolated from the grounding. I have no idea what you mean by "dead", but it does have to terminate on it's own neutral bar. Most likely you'll have to purchase and install a separate ground bar.
-Question, is the garage attached or detached? If attached, NO ground rod is required or needed. If detached, at least one ground rod and a main disconnect (main breaker typically) is/are required.

This is a quick synopsis of this install. There are many codes involved with running the cable and terminating things. PLEASE read up on doing this job and know what you are doing BEFORE you do it, or considering having it done by a pro.
 

Brettd65

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Wow, a bit hard to read. Please take this as the constructive criticism that it is: Write in sentences with proper punctuation and capitalization.

Ok, several problems with your plan.
-In any case 8/2 is NOT acceptable for a 120/240V sub-panel. You need a neutral and an equipment ground run with the hot conductors. For a sun-panel it makes absolutely no sense to run just a 120V feeder. For not much more money run X/3 cable and you will double your capacity and have the future capability to run 240V loads.
-#8 NM or UF cable is NOT acceptable for a 50A feeder. You'd need #6 and this will allow you to run up to a 60A feeder.
-The ground rod is NOT for an equipment ground, so it has NOTHING to do with the bare wire run with the circuit.
-The neutral in a sub-panel is now always isolated from the grounding. I have no idea what you mean by "dead", but it does have to terminate on it's own neutral bar. Most likely you'll have to purchase and install a separate
Wow, a bit hard to read. Please take this as the constructive criticism that it is: Write in sentences with proper punctuation and capitalization.

Ok, several problems with your plan.
-In any case 8/2 is NOT acceptable for a 120/240V sub-panel. You need a neutral and an equipment ground run with the hot conductors. For a sun-panel it makes absolutely no sense to run just a 120V feeder. For not much more money run X/3 cable and you will double your capacity and have the future capability to run 240V loads.
-#8 NM or UF cable is NOT acceptable for a 50A feeder. You'd need #6 and this will allow you to run up to a 60A feeder.
-The ground rod is NOT for an equipment ground, so it has NOTHING to do with the bare wire run with the circuit.
-The neutral in a sub-panel is now always isolated from the grounding. I have no idea what you mean by "dead", but it does have to terminate on it's own neutral bar. Most likely you'll have to purchase and install a separate ground bar.
-Question, is the garage attached or detached? If attached, NO ground rod is required or needed. If detached, at least one ground rod and a main disconnect (main breaker typically) is/are required.

This is a quick synopsis of this install. There are many codes involved with running the cable and terminating things. PLEASE read up on doing this job and know what you are doing BEFORE you do it, or considering having it done by a pro.
Garage is attached but has no current power. Your saying run 6-3 from a 60 amp breaker to feed the sub panel? Im sorry I posted this quickly at work I was referring to my main panel rite now only has one bar which both ground and neutral are attached to.
 

Speedy Petey

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Garage is attached but has no current power. Your saying run 6-3 from a 60 amp breaker to feed the sub panel? Im sorry I posted this quickly at work I was referring to my main panel rite now only has one bar which both ground and neutral are attached to.
In the main panel the neutral and ground bars are common and are bonded. In a sub-panel they must remain isolated.
 
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