Need your input. Noble TS - drop down shower

[01sesedan]

Will do on the thin set mix.

Another thing I'm planning in advance are the side walls. We're going to have a solid glass pane next to the toilet (left) and door on the other half (right).

How close to the drop should the glass be installed?
Which method is best, U channel or clamp?


Based on that location of the glass is how far into the bathroom I plan to bring in the tile. Overall plan is to tile the shower area up to the ceiling. Then tile the rest of the bathroom about 40" up the wall.

Hope my question makes sense.

I'll draw some lines on the wall to explain it better tomorrow.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

That outside dam corner looks trashed.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ShowerDude]

Joe ,
that outside corner does look rough! good eye john..

i would use a min of 3/8 tempered glass. you have the option of frameless... single fixed panel being the affordable route....glass like that could run you around $700 installed...

I like clamps and minimal u channels. your tile work needs to be FLAT and lippage free for glass.

placement will be dictated somewhat by your toilet.... you need to keep 13" on each side of toilet OC min in my area.

if that is not a concern i like to place my glass just a few inches from edge of curb .... you need to look at code and then make an aesthetic call.

also consider where youll place your cappilary .... John??

and finally!! did you really plan ahead and add extra studs in the wall and or ceiling for glass??

just my 2 cents.

 

[01sesedan]

On the drop down side, I put outside corner first. Then TS. Then inside corner. The top of the pre-former corner sticks up higher than the bathroom floor. I cut it along the the pre-form down to the bathroom floor. This left a small flap. I'm going to 150 the small flap to the floor.

Hope it makes sense.

 

[01sesedan]

I'll try to get something completed this weekend.

As for the shower niche, should I try to cover the inside with wallseal? I read somewhere to try and make a template first before cutting it.

Or

Use mapei aqua defense, which I could get locally at a flooring supply warehouse.

So far, I have not been able to locate Ardex 8+9. When I ask the supply house or other shops, I get the "what is that" look. Guess, I might have to get it online.

Just planning in advance.

Thanks guys.

 

[ShowerDude]

Joe,

You can use wall seal for niche, Although I often times opt to use liquids such as hydroban or Aqua defense will work. You still need inside /outside corners for niche. Or you can do fold cut corners as you did for your pan.


lets Not ! go overboard with folds +dom corners + in/out corners this time !!!!

The aqua defense with The Mapei fleece fabric will be both easier to detail the niche and quicker with less buildup.

You are now mixing products. If you have been guided by Noble and are wanting any kind of wrrty. " LOL "

use wall seal. and noble 150. I often mix liquids with my noble products. The choice , yours to make.

If you have not already cut your nich'e out of wall, wait until you layout your tile and try and force youre niche to time out with full tile courses of tile and place it for best aesthetic result......

pat yourself on the back for tackling a tough buildout with premium materials and focus a little harder on your details !

 

[01sesedan]

Thanks for the input.

Too late on the niche. I put then in before we got the tile. Rookie mistake. Sometimes I feel like covering up the opening and make a new one once we begin to tile.

After all, it's only some 2x4'sn durock that has been screwed in and covered with thinset.

I sometimes think is worth the extra work since I'm going so slow. What's another weekend.

Plus I have extra material.

Let's see....

 

[01sesedan]

Finally got the rest of Noble TS completed late last night. Just got around to removing the hold down material. 1x4 on the walls and some thinset bags and tile boxes on the floor.

Here's the niche and foot rest that was made before tile selection was made. I'll have to work on the layout before I cover it up.

I've also attached some pictures of the granite used for the shelf. One at the bottom another in the middle. For the foot rest I plan to use tile.

 

[ShowerDude]

Not a bad looking buildout Joe... so your niche /footrest currently back up to the back of drywall? still cant see a screw count? alkalai mesh tape ??

make sure youre niche bottom and footrest are pitched under your waterproofing and tile? hard to see?

how do you plan to attack the waterproofing of Niche and tie it into wall seal??

good progress !!

 

[01sesedan]

Was able to dig up some pictures. Didn't take any with board and screws finally screwed down.

Since durock is 36" wide, it lays on 2x4 stack, were the green board and durock meet. A lot more durock screws were used before covering them with thin set. I used alkali mesh tape and thinset.

The 2x4 stack (durock/greenboard) meet is were I wanted to install the glass door. Its wide enough to install the glass door. I wanted to have flexibility on were to end the tile. Still planning this part.

Also the tile does have bull nose 3" x 24" but we didn't want to have that type of finish/edge. I'm looking at profile, pencil trim, or just keep the tile edge with no profile. Maybe just caulk. I'll post pictures of the tile and mosaic we purchased tomorrow.

My dad helping out.

 

[ShowerDude]

Very cool , you and your pops buding An upgraded shower...Nice work.....

in regards to glass......

i like to have solid studs in place anywhere the glass meets wall or ceiling. frameless , channeled, clips, hinges, all options are open...

it is hard to start the buildout w/out all the material choices and layout and glass planned iin advance before starting the framing.

you have done a great job and unless you build showers daily it is hard to plan for everything...

pat your dad on the back as wel...

 

[01sesedan]

Thanks for the props....

I'm dry fitting Wall Seal, look like its going to be tough wrapping the 3 walls in one shot. I'll have to put thin set on all 3 wall/6 feet high first, then press in wall seal. Then overlap with another row of wall seal above that.

Or do the one wall top to bottom. Make band and use 150 to attach.

I didn't get a chance to noble first. Have you guys cut wall seal in 3 parts. One for each wall, then make a band with wall seal and use 150 to attach?

I may just prep the bottom layer on the control wall and cut holes for the control valve and spout. Prep the top layer for the shower head.

Seem like it may be easier with EXT, looks very sticky.

What your thoughts on the best method?

 

[ShowerDude]

Joe,

likely your corners are not truly plumb. wrapping 3 walls wont be the smart route.

precut and dryfit your pieces one wall at a time and make fold creases ..... lap them as we spoke accordingly at pan to mimize buildup.

when i dry fit sheets i use a level and draw lines to later guide me in combing thin set to edge of sheets.... fwd thinking of laps and sealant.

wet down your durock well and use 3/16 notch 1 sheet or 1 wall at a time is
more than enough to tackle.

take your time measuriing and cutting and embedding, and do pull checks to verify full coverage.

aply thin set methodically so you can squeeze in a tiny bead of 150 at seams....

 

[ShowerDude]

after your done and it sets up you can use certain thinsets (ardex x 5 to skim walls a few coats to reduce buildup youve created by over using materials at pan corners..!!! (nice effort though btw)

next time you would plan ahead for buildup in the framing/boarding stage


depending on tile size its usually easier just to float your installation if tile size and notch allows for that you can easily compensate for corners and lower courses at pan.

good luck its sunday, a NO work day!!!

 

[Jadnashua]

It is definitely easier to waterproof one wall at a time. You can run the sheet around the corner enough for a proper seam if it is wide enough. The beauty of the stuff is that it is waterproof regardless of how you lay it out as long as you do your seams properly. Try to lay it out to minimize buildup and don't worry about seams as much. Smaller is better. A bigger sheet also means your thinset has a bigger chance of skinning over before you get things covered and embedded...makes embedding the fleece REALLY tough as well as removing any excess material. It cannot be stressed enough...you want SSD (saturated, surface dry) on the cbu. The only time it is too much is if it is dripping with surface water. This allows all of the proper mix of water in the thinset to stay there and not be sucked out by the wall. Remember, the cement goes through a chemical reaction to cure and that requires water. TO be able to spread the stuff, it does have excess amounts of water than needed for the chemical reaction, but still...

 

[01sesedan]

I'm taking this approach. Got 3 walls done but ran out of noblesealant 150.

On the 5' wall, I made it overlap the 3' wall 2.25". Don't have to put a band in the corner. Hope the helps keep the build up down a little

Ordered it from the same site I got the rest of the noble stuff. Now waiting for it to arrive. Got some 1/8 horseshoe spacers also.

 

[Jadnashua]

What a lot of the pros on some other sites prefer to use are hard plastic tile wedges verses softer or flat spacers. This allows you to make very fine incremental adjustments. A little bit of thinset can make your grout joint just a little larger than you thought unless you're really watching for it carefully on a flat spacer. And, not all tiles are exactly the same, and those errors can add up, making a fixed thickness spacer less reliable than a wedge.

TO make the seams waterproof, all you need is an overlap...where you put it depends on your best chance of minimizing buildup. Wrapping a corner can work, but can make it harder to get a nice clean seam. With practice, your choices become bigger. One reason I like systems that rely on thinset for both attaching the membrane and making the seams...you don't have to wait for an expensive tube of the sealant to show up on your front porch...you can normally find a bag of thinset locally and keep going. Makes it faster, too.

 

[01sesedan]

Still waiting for 150 to arrive. Installed wallseal on both 3' walls. Might install the back wall then go over all seams later.

Question about tile blade. Did some searching and some recommend T3 Razor. What do you guys like? I picked up a used Dewald D24000 a few months ago. It came with a Rigid blade but looks pretty worn.

My budget is $100 for a good blade. Hope I could find something decent for that price.

 

[ShowerDude]

Joe, I have had good luck with these lately...


https://www.stonetoolwarehouse.com/...nite/diamax-cyclone-continuous-rim-blade.html


I think the ridgid segemented blades are decent if youre stuck with bigbox, The T3 ive had only 1. liked it

I do not spend $100 pn a blade EVER. $50-60 max. Another reason I like my small 7" saws.

Really depends on material being cut??

I almost exclusively use " Segmented blades" anymore.

good luck with project... cant wait to see it

 

[01sesedan]

Checked out the blade. Its a ridgid AC2010. Might try some test cuts, see how it does.