Ejector Pump Discharge

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Rrmathome

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I am putting a bathroom in my basement and will be using an ejector pump since the waste line is 4 feet off the ground.

I have added a 4x4x2 wye (on its back) into my waste line and the waste from the pump will go into this wye, not somewhere in the stack.

Does the ejector pump have to pump waste high (up to the ceiling) before having it fall into the waste line?

Or, can I just pipe it so the discharge line goes right into this wye? There woudnt be any pitch as there would be no horizontal run, with the exception of the wye itself (which is on its back).
 

Terry

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It's a pumped line. It will be fine.
The discharge from the basin will have a check valve and a shutoff valve.
The shutoff valve allows you to isolate that line when you access the pump.
 

Rrmathome

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It's a pumped line. It will be fine.
The discharge from the basin will have a check valve and a shutoff valve.
The shutoff valve allows you to isolate that line when you access the pump.

Great, so no need to go higher than the wye.

I think I am up to my last question on this project.

When the sewage barrel and pipes are laid, then I backfill and then pour cement over it, 4 inches think just like the floor I dug out.

I see people say that it should be sand and gravel, and then cement. But why not just use the dirt I removed? That's the way it was poured originally-concrete over dirt.
 
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Rrmathome

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I have the vent set up. I am just wondering about the concrete.

Also, the grommet for the wires is loose fitting around the wires. Shouldnt it be tight around them?
 

Rrmathome

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An AAV does NOT work on a sealed pump basin. Normally, the wires ARE a tight fit in the grommet.
At first, I thought the grommet was broken as well--split down the middle.

But now I can see that the split is intentionally (I think) because the wires in it have the wall connectors (three prongs) so if there was just a hole, the wires would never fit. It needs to be cut from the side through the center of each of the two holes. There is a knockout of sorts for a third wire and the split is not into that spot.. I am assuming this is for an alarm which I can see does not have a wall connector. So that wire can slide right in with no problem even without the split.

So, that split I understand, but even with it, there is a gap (maybe about 1/16 of an inch) around each wire.

The grommet fits tight into the hole, but the wires are loose.

Between the loose wires an the split, what is the expected installation? Should silicone be used to seal it? Or do I have a defective grommet?
 

Rrmathome

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I spoke to Franklin (Little Giant) and they said in this situation, I should use silicon to seal the gap between the grommet holes and the wires.

Make sense?
 

Reach4

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Makes sense to me. I would glob the silicone up a bit on the wires, and then push the wires toward the hole a bit to let silicone push into the crack better. Then let it cure. I would choose a sealant that mentions having acetic acid (in the MSDS) during curing, because it is the classic type. Newer ones might have some advantages for aquariums due to not harming the tropical fish or quicker cure, but the classics seem best to me. Silicone II 2.8-oz. Kitchen and Bath Clear Caulk is an example of one that I would would avoid for this use because it does not have the acetic acid cited in its MSDS. This is just my opinion, and it is not backed with extensive experience or research.

I figure that you could assemble everything, and then put the silicone on/in from the top. That way you can let it cure for a good while without moving things. Humidity is involved in the curing. Being that it is in a basement, that should not be a problem. When the cure is complete, you cannot smell acetic acid (vinegar) .
 

Rrmathome

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I was thinking about the gasket-forming stuff--or is that more for high-temp situations?

I read somewhere online (cant find it now) where someone said that they dont use the stick on rubber sealer that comes with the basin--the seal between the basin and the lid. Instead they use the gasket-forming silicone (maybe its not technically silicone)

Any issues with the seals that come with the units?
 

Reach4

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I would not worry about seals that come with the unit. I would lightly coat any seals that I want to be able to easily open later with silicone grease. I have a tube of Molykote 111, which is rather stiff. I like it. That tube will last me for years. Lower viscosity silicone grease is favored by many. I use nitrile gloves when I plan to touch the grease so as to not get grease on other things after I am done. While it is safe for use for potable water seals, it's much better for seals even for sewage than what some might use. Petroleum jelly is notoriously bad for seals.

Such greasing may not be needed, but it will not hurt. I would rather overdo a bit than underdone.

I would not use such grease on your wire feedthroughs.

Back to the silicone on the ejector basin: globing some extra silicone sealer above the entrance to the wires will also serve to distribute any bending forces over a little longer piece of wire. That will help prevent fatigue breakage-- not that you were going to do a lot of flexing anyway.
 

Rrmathome

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I would not worry about seals that come with the unit. I would lightly coat any seals that I want to be able to easily open later with silicone grease. I have a tube of Molykote 111, which is rather stiff. I like it. That tube will last me for years. Lower viscosity silicone grease is favored by many. I use nitrile gloves when I plan to touch the grease so as to not get grease on other things after I am done. While it is safe for use for potable water seals, it's much better for seals even for sewage than what some might use. Petroleum jelly is notoriously bad for seals.

Such greasing may not be needed, but it will not hurt. I would rather overdo a bit than underdone.

I would not use such grease on your wire feedthroughs.

Back to the silicone on the ejector basin: globing some extra silicone sealer above the entrance to the wires will also serve to distribute any bending forces over a little longer piece of wire. That will help prevent fatigue breakage-- not that you were going to do a lot of flexing anyway.

Ok, so:
silicone (with acetic acid) for the wire holes.
silicone grease for the rubber seal on the lid

I suppose it couldnt hurt to put a little silicone (with acetic acid) on the other grommets as well:
the intake (which will be under ground)
the vent
the discharge

They do say to use a lubricant (they say soapy water or vaseline) to make it easier to slide the PVC in. But I guess the silicone grease would be better on these as well.

(By the way, thank for all of your feedback. I REALLY appreciate your time and input)
 
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