Star water system

[RAM1961]

Does anybody know anything about these? We have the two tank model # s07FS32SR and best I can tell, there are two lines to the 2092 "DR" control valve. Bought this place in September, and it seemed to be working fine at the time. But we've filled up the tank with salt and it hasn't gone down or anything - and that's been four months or better. Sometimes when we turn the indexing knob on control valve from "in service" to "regenerate", you can hear water running thru one or both of those lines, sometimes you don't. Regardless, the iron smell is very obvious. I know nothing about these and operation manual isn't seeming to give me any hints. Half tempted to replace it, but know nothing about where these two lines go from/to the control valve - one does go to a HP 360 water filter, but then into the wall and who knows where. We're empty nesters, so don't use a lot of water, but I know this isn't good for the system, water heaters, clothes, etc. Even the water in toilet bowl has a slight color to it. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Rick

 

[Mialynette2003]

Does it resemble this valve?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[RAM1961]

I would say that's an exact match - thinking it's the 5600 DR control valve.

 

[Mialynette2003]

The small line is the brine line and it goes to the brine tank. The bigger line is the drain line which goes to the drain or outside. Disconnect the brine line from the valve. Turn the center knob from the 9 oclock position to the 2 oclock position. There should be a suction where the brine line connects to the valve. If no suction, you may have a clog in the drain or the injector is clogged. These are well built valve and give years of service. You can rebuild them cheaper then replacing them. Let me know if you need help.

 

[ditttohead]

Sounds like they are using a softener for hardness and iron removal. Softeners can remove iron but it is not typically recommended. Iron reduction should be done with an iron removal system. Assuming your system is not working properly at the moment and it is not using salt, your resin is likely heavily fouled with iron. A regular salt regeneration once you get the valve working properly will help, but chemical cleaning of the resin will likely be necessary. What we really need is to start with a water test. Do you have some basic testing done? Are you on a well?

 

[RAM1961]

The small line is the brine line and it goes to the brine tank. The bigger line is the drain line which goes to the drain or outside. Disconnect the brine line from the valve. Turn the center knob from the 9 oclock position to the 2 oclock position. There should be a suction where the brine line connects to the valve. If no suction, you may have a clog in the drain or the injector is clogged. These are well built valve and give years of service. You can rebuild them cheaper then replacing them. Let me know if you need help.

Thanks for your response. I'm guessing you're referring to the small line as the one when facing control valve comes out the right hand side. Not sure where the bigger line is. Two things - first, I can't turn the knob CW past 12 o'clock which is the "backwash" setting - it simply won't turn any farther. Second, I notice the clock isn't working - I went out last nite and set it to correct time of 5 p.m. and it's still sitting at 5 p.m. this morning.

 

[RAM1961]

Sounds like they are using a softener for hardness and iron removal. Softeners can remove iron but it is not typically recommended. Iron reduction should be done with an iron removal system. Assuming your system is not working properly at the moment and it is not using salt, your resin is likely heavily fouled with iron. A regular salt regeneration once you get the valve working properly will help, but chemical cleaning of the resin will likely be necessary. What we really need is to start with a water test. Do you have some basic testing done? Are you on a well?

We are on a well - typically, these types of set ups are common in this area whether they should be or not. We have not done a water test. When we first moved in, we weren't getting the foul odor for about the first two months. Ironically, the salt tank was pretty much empty and full of sludge in the bottom which my wife cleaned out. She then followed directions to refill, including the five gallon bucket of water. Since then we've started noticing the odor and discoloration of water. Sometimes when we cycle the indexing knob per instructions it will actually turn and you can hear water running through the lines. More often then not, the knob will not go past "back wash" and you don't hear anything, like last nite. This morning, the knob was display REGEN again, so it did move or something even though the clock isn't working.

 

[ditttohead]

Since you are on a well, it is important that some water testing be done. http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/me...NTL&Product_Code=9003&Category_Code=Homeowner

Do you know how old the system is?

Some common problems once the valve gets some years on it is the piston/seal spacer start to jam up causing the motor to wear. It is not uncommon to simply replace the seal/spacer kit, the brine valve, a few O-rings, and replace the timer motor. Be sure the system has power, you can remove the rear cover and visually see the motor turning through the little clear plastic window on the back of the motor. You can also listen to it, the motor on this unit makes some noise. It will also be warm/hot to the touch.

 

[RAM1961]

Since you are on a well, it is important that some water testing be done. http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/me...NTL&Product_Code=9003&Category_Code=Homeowner

Do you know how old the system is?

Some common problems once the valve gets some years on it is the piston/seal spacer start to jam up causing the motor to wear. It is not uncommon to simply replace the seal/spacer kit, the brine valve, a few O-rings, and replace the timer motor. Be sure the system has power, you can remove the rear cover and visually see the motor turning through the little clear plastic window on the back of the motor. You can also listen to it, the motor on this unit makes some noise. It will also be warm/hot to the touch.

The home is 7 years old, so am guessing system is no older then that. And yes, I can hear it running. I've done some searching, but not finding a rebuild kit for it.

 

[ditttohead]

I sent you a PM re: the rebuild kit. In order to properly operate the system, you need to do some basic testing. Hardness, iron, manganese, etc. It is not possible to set the system accurately without some basic water testing. Regardless of the system, just for safety, a proper water test should be done.

 

[Mialynette2003]

You might want to check where the shaft (gear) of the motor connects to the back of the timer assemble. There is a pin that sticks out of the back that supports the motor shaft. When the piston binds, the motor sometimes break to seat for the pin. Without the pin support, the shaft will move away from the idler gear stopping the regen cycle and the time of day will be off. Also, there is a window on the back of the motor that shows movement. If there is no movement in the window, the motor is bad.

 

[ditttohead]

The main gear also can break off the first tooth, this is more of an older valve problem from many years ago, but we are still seeing a few of these teeth break on very old valves. 13170

 

[RAM1961]

The main gear also can break off the first tooth, this is more of an older valve problem from many years ago, but we are still seeing a few of these teeth break on very old valves. 13170

Thank you for your reply - prior to checking back out here, I figured out I needed to look for Fleck rebuild kit and have one coming. However, I followed video instructions to tear this down - there's really no buildup in either valve assemblies or the line running to salt tank. Both valves moved freely. But I still can't turn the indexing knob clockwise - or either way for that matter. I just came back in from checking valves so didn't see your posts above. So right now the unit is set on "back wash" and I reset the time of day to current. Don't think it's going to change things - maybe a new control unit?

 

[Mialynette2003]

Push in the red button and try turning the knob. Sometimes it gets jammed up & doing this will free it up.

 

[Akpsdvan]

There is the possibility that there is a broken wheel in the control head ?? Have seen it happen when the base of the brine can wheel brakes and then jams the rest of the gears.
Look through the power head for any thing out of place or broken parts falling out.
when the power head is off the control from the front should turn very freely.

 

[RAM1961]

Pushing the red button didn't help - it does act like indexing (center) knob/dial is jammed. It did not turn even after taking it off tank.

 

[Mialynette2003]

Remove the power head from the base. There are 2 5/16" screws holding it to the base and 1 1/4" screw connecting it to the piston. There is a gray strip in the center of the knob. Behind it is a screw. Loosen the screw slightly and try to turn. Don't loosen too much because there are 2 steel balls behind the main shaft that may fall out of place.

 

[RAM1961]

Problem solved. Bought a new control unit. Water quality is improving every day. Thank you to all who responded for the help.