Wall Outlet Melted Through

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Leenali

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Hello, I was wondering if someone might be able to help me.

I (used to) have a wall outlet in my room. I plugged my phone charger in the wall and didn't realize that at the time I removed it one of the metal pieces stayed behind. (The outlet is located conveniently behind a shelf). I hadn't been home all day so that metal piece had to be in there for a good 16 hours at least. When I did get home I went straight to bed. While I was drifting off I started smelling burning plastic. I thought it might of been my heater so I unplugged it. I went back to bed only to be awakened by sizzling, cracking, and a loud pop. Then a whole lot of smoke. Also all of the electricity in my room went out.

The next day I removed the damaged outlet and promptly contacted my local hardware store (home depot) and was told to put wire nuts on the ends of the exposed wires and that I should be able to turn the electricity back on in my room. So I did just that.

Unfortunately when I went to basement to turn my electric back on... it didn't come back on. None of the outlets work at all, or the lights. I'm not sure if I should mention that the rest of the house is fine.

So as an electrical novice(meaning I have no experience whatsoever) I'm seeking advice as to what I might be able to do to get my electricity back in my room on my own. Or if I should just spend loads of money on an electrician. Thank you very much!
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Jadnashua

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CIrcuit breakers need to be FULLY turned to the OFF position before you can turn them back on. Try that.

The existing wiring doesn't look too good, either. Tape on it to repair the insulation isn't proper...it really should be replaced.
 

Vegas_sparky

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There are more than a few things that need correcting there. With no experience, I'd recommend you get a professional electrician to look at things more closely.

The piece of metal doesn't appear to have been the cause. Loose neutral terminations on the receptacle, with a load downstream does.

You're very lucky you woke up and realized there was a problem.
 
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Speedy Petey

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Or if I should just spend loads of money on an electrician.
This.

I'm sure you can find one of us that does not have a boat payment coming due so you may be able to save a few hundred $$. Or maybe you can just pay him in beer since typically we just cash the checks we get and go to the bar.
 

Speedy Petey

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Or..........You can find a decent legitimate professional contractor in your area that will come and make a house call, with probably $80,000 worth of vehicle, tools and material, and tons of insurance, for around $150-200.
 

DonL

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My guess is the heater caused it.

And that outlet branches off to the rest of the room.

You will need to cut all of the bad wire out.

Well your electrician will need to.


Good Luck on your project.
 

ActionDave

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I agree with hj and Speedy Peety- there is more to the story, and you need an electrician.
 

Kreemoweet

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When your electrician comes to fix that mess, have him/her check the power draw of the
electric heater. I've encountered more than one melted plug/receptacle caused by
excessive current in a cheap Chinese space heater.
 

DonL

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When your electrician comes to fix that mess, have him/her check the power draw of the
electric heater. I've encountered more than one melted plug/receptacle caused by
excessive current in a cheap Chinese space heater.


That is one reason I buy the heaters with the 750 Watt Low setting.

I never use High because 1500 Watts is to much, and the Plug Will get overheated.
 

Speedy Petey

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That is one reason I buy the heaters with the 750 Watt Low setting.

I never use High because 1500 Watts is to much, and the Plug Will get overheated.
1500 watts is 12A. How is this "too much"??

The thing I do agree with is that things with high draws like this will always find a weak point in a circuit. In a sound tight circuit it is fine. The problem is cheap crap devices that most people have used for many years.
 

DonL

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It is all about duty cycle.

The power cord and plug will get Hot.
 

hj

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The picture is NOT clear as to how it is wired, but the insulation on the hot wire from the switch is melted way back, which is usually an indication of a loose connection.
 

DonL

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The picture is NOT clear as to how it is wired, but the insulation on the hot wire from the switch is melted way back, which is usually an indication of a loose connection.


It also looks like electrical tape was used as a band-aid for the damaged conductors.
 

Jadnashua

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Loose or corroded contacts 'look' like increased resistance, and the current going through them creates heat. The same reason why the heating elements in the heater get hot - resistance and pushing the electrons through, the contacts in the receptacle can get hot. As the receptacle ages, the spring tension on the contacts gets less, and that can cause it to heat up as well. The things do not last forever, and a $0.59 special doesn't last as long as a industrial rated one, either.
 

DonL

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I would never install a Cheap receptacle or a plastic box in my house.

Even if code allows it.

I am not sure how that junk even passes inspection.
 

JWelectric

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1500 watts is 12A. How is this "too much"??

The thing I do agree with is that things with high draws like this will always find a weak point in a circuit. In a sound tight circuit it is fine. The problem is cheap crap devices that most people have used for many years.
It is resistive heat so the 125% rule applies and especially when the heater is being used continuously.

This will bring the draw to 12.5 amps due to the continued current draw which causes things to heat.
The Table in 210.21 mandates the largest one load on a 15 amp receptacle is 12 amps.

Of course with this overload that is being made to this receptacle it will fail at its weakest point in which case it was improper installations at the terminations. If these had not have failed then the slots would end up failing but in any case this heater when used at max will make all 15 amp receptacles and circuits fail.
 

Speedy Petey

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It is resistive heat so the 125% rule applies and especially when the heater is being used continuously.
Ummm...no way. It is NOT a "heating circuit", especially not a fixed electric heating circuit. It is a general receptacle circuit, so the automatic 125% rules does not apply.


This will bring the draw to 12.5 amps due to the continued current draw which causes things to heat.
The Table in 210.21 mandates the largest one load on a 15 amp receptacle is 12 amps.
True, for circuits with more than one receptacle. So then how, by code, can it have a 15A attachment plug? I have never read the instructions for one of these heat boxes, but I'm sure you have. Do they dictate mandatory use on an individual circuit? Same goes for an 1800 watt hair dryer. What do the instructions say?


Of course with this overload that is being made to this receptacle it will fail at its weakest point in which case it was improper installations at the terminations. If these had not have failed then the slots would end up failing but in any case this heater when used at max will make all 15 amp receptacles and circuits fail.
That is a very bold (literally) statement, which I DO NOT agree with.
"All" and "will" are a dangerous words to use. You need to be very sure of what you are saying when you use such absolute words.

Don't get me wrong. I HATE space heaters. They are a menace and do cause all sorts of problems, but they are not an immediate and certain problem. If they were there'd certainly be way more problems and fires than there are already.
 

JWelectric

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Ummm...no way. It is NOT a "heating circuit", especially not a fixed electric heating circuit. It is a general receptacle circuit, so the automatic 125% rules does not apply.
any load that is for 3 hours or more is to be calculated at 125%. Resistive loads are 125%
True, for circuits with more than one receptacle. So then how, by code, can it have a 15A attachment plug? I have never read the instructions for one of these heat boxes, but I'm sure you have. Do they dictate mandatory use on an individual circuit? Same goes for an 1800 watt hair dryer. What do the instructions say?
It is not code that allows the 15 amp cord cap but the listing of the unit that allows the cord cap. High resistive loads are to be used for just a few minutes like the blow dryer but when someone tries to heat their home with portable heaters that are designed to be used to help not heat then problems occurs.
Most portable heaters mandate a 20 amp circuit but again if the device is a 15 amp device then it will fail.
That is a very bold (literally) statement, which I DO NOT agree with.
"All" and "will" are a dangerous words to use. You need to be very sure of what you are saying when you use such absolute words.
I am sure of what I am saying and stand by the use of all and will
Don't get me wrong. I HATE space heaters. They are a menace and do cause all sorts of problems, but they are not an immediate and certain problem. If they were there'd certainly be way more problems and fires than there are already.
When used within their listing they are safe. It is when they are used outside their listing they become unsafe. Trying to heat a house or even a small room with these items will (notice the use of the word will) result in a fire.
 
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