Install on Concrete floor

[Troy Muller]

With a skirted toilet having the "rough in" adapter, is it necessary to mount the toilet to the concrete or will the original drain mount and caulk be enough to keep the toilet in place?

I know kids can be rough in the bathroom, but how much of a problem would this be without mounting it to the concrete?

Thoughts?

 

[WJcandee]

Assuming you're talking abou Toto, you mount the adapter to the concrete with four bolts at one end and to the flange at the other. You then plug the toilet into the adapter at the 4-bolt end. You then secure the toilet to the adapter with typical toilet t-bolts at that same end.

5/16 rotohammer, and then use the green plastic inserts in the holes and then the four screws for the back of the adapter.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

It does seem less robust than the classic mount, because it is the sealant that holds the front of the toilet from going to the left or right.

It would be a lot of work to precision-mount some pads to the floor inside the front of the skirt to prevent movement. On the other hand a little movement would not be catastrophic I figure. you slide it back and apply sealant again.

 

[Gary Swart]

Attaching objects to concrete probably seems like a real problem, but it really isn't. There are a couple of ways that I have tried with some degree of success. Tapcon screws are OK, but what works the best for me is lead sleeves and screws. I have my own small rotor hammer/drill, but they can be rented. Use a SDS 5/16" bit and drill into the concrete where you want the screws, making sure the hole is deeper than the lead sleeve and screw. Then a 3/8" lead sleeve is tapped into the hole and a #12 sheet metal screw holds to object firmly in place. I have attached toilet flanges, utility sink legs, and metal outlet boxes with this method and it really works great.

 

[Gary Swart]

Attaching objects to concrete probably seems like a real problem, but it really isn't. There are a couple of ways that I have tried with some degree of success. Tapcon screws are OK, but what works the best for me is lead sleeves and screws. I have my own small rotor hammer/drill, but they can be rented. Use a SDS 5/16" bit and drill into the concrete where you want the screws, making sure the hole is deeper than the lead sleeve and screw. Then a 3/8" lead sleeve is tapped into the hole and a #12 sheet metal screw holds to object firmly in place. I have attached toilet flanges, utility sink legs, and metal outlet boxes with this method and it really works great.