Breaker and wire size for pool heat pump - MCA, wire and breaker size.

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Bluebinky

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I suppose that some have self-taught themselves past knowing just what are common terms and what are not when it comes to talking about electrical circuits.
Against my better judgment, I will say one thing ... you really are arrogant.
 
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DonL

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Pool Heat Pump arrived today. My pool guy set it in place and plumbed it in. I wired it.

Nameplate called for a Minimum Circuit Amps 36.2, Maximum Breaker size 60 Amps.

Since MCA exceeded 35 Amps (36.2) I wired it with 2 black 10' lengths of #8 THWN to the existing 50 amp breaker, and 1 Green 10' #10 length. Total cost $15.

I ran a #10 bare solid bonding wire to tie into the existing bond of the pumps.

#10 THWN was 10 cents per foot cheaper than #8 so it cost me $2 more.

I already had 3/4" liquid-tight flex and fittings.



Great that you have it going.

You maybe should have went with #8 for the bonding.

Is it on a ground fault interrupt ?


Have Fun.
 

DonL

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JW knows the code and also how to save money too.


Not sure you can save money on the bonding conductor, and still meet code.

I think #8 is required.
 
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JerryR

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Great that you have it going.

You maybe should have went with #8 for the bonding.

Is it on a ground fault interrupt ?


Have Fun.
All existing bonds are already #10 so that is what I went with.

There are 3 breakers in the pool sub panel. Pool pump, Jet pump and Heat pump. None are GFCI.

Does code require GFCI?
 

DonL

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All existing bonds are already #10 so that is what I went with.

There are 3 breakers in the pool sub panel. Pool pump, Jet pump and Heat pump. None are GFCI.

Does code require GFCI?



It is a fail, I think. I thought you did your homework ?

JW has the final answer.


Good Luck.
 

BobL43

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All existing bonds are already #10 so that is what I went with.

There are 3 breakers in the pool sub panel. Pool pump, Jet pump and Heat pump. None are GFCI.

Does code require GFCI?
On my Hot tub I installed in 1987, I have GFCI Breakers 1 2 pole for the 220v Pump, 1 2 pole for the 220v Air Blower, and 1 single pole 115v for the (Propane) heater and Spa control panels.
 

JerryR

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I followed the pool guy's electrician directions for wire size and breaker.

The house was built in 1997. No GFCI breakers in the pool sub panel.

Interesting that Florida Power and Light inspected pool pump to verify it met code prior to sending out a contract electrician to install remote on-call. He blessed it as meeting code. The on-call allows FP&L to turn off devices for 15 minutes at a time during heavy loads. For that FP&L offers monthly rebate per device.

Well today the contract electrician came out and would not install the on-call device because while there was a #10 bare bond wire between the pool rebar, pool handrails, pool pump, jet pump and screen cage enclosure he couldn't find where it was tied to a ground rod. I now need to drive an 8' ground rod and bond the pump to it also.

Oh well
 
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JerryR

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I followed the pool guy's electrician directions for wire size and breaker.

The house was built in 1997. It's an in-ground gunite concrete pool and spa. No GFCI breakers in the pool sub panel.

Interesting that Florida Power and Light inspected pool pump last week to verify it met code prior to sending out a contract electrician to install remote on-call. He blessed it as meeting code. The on-call allows FP&L to turn off devices for 15 minutes at a tine during heavy loads.

Well today the contract electrician came out and would not install the device because while there was a #10 bare bond wire between the pool rebar, pool handrails, pool pump, jet pump and screen cage enclosure he couldn't find where it was tied to a ground rod. I now need to drive an 8' ground rod and bond the pump to it also.

He did install a device on my water heater that I wired a few months ago.

Oh well
 

BobL43

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I followed the pool guy's electrician directions for wire size and breaker.

The house was built in 1997. No GFCI breakers in the pool sub panel.

Interesting that Florida Power and Light inspected pool pump to verify it met code prior to sending out a contract electrician to install remote on-call. He blessed it as meeting code. The on-call allows FP&L to turn off devices for 15 minutes at a tine during heavy loads.

Well today the contract electrician came out and would not install the device because while there was a #10 bare bond wire between the pool rebar, pool handrails, pool pump, jet pump and screen cage enclosure he couldn't find where it was tied to a ground rod. I now need to drive an 8' ground rod and bond the pump to it also.

Oh well
Code grounding/bonding issues aside, I think in Florida it will take you longer to find and get the hammer to the work area than it will take you to pound it into the ground. Where I live, on top of rock and clay, it might take all of 5 or 10 minutes.
 

JWelectric

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I followed the pool guy's electrician directions for wire size and breaker.

The house was built in 1997. It's an in-ground gunite concrete pool and spa. No GFCI breakers in the pool sub panel.

Interesting that Florida Power and Light inspected pool pump last week to verify it met code prior to sending out a contract electrician to install remote on-call. He blessed it as meeting code. The on-call allows FP&L to turn off devices for 15 minutes at a tine during heavy loads.

Well today the contract electrician came out and would not install the device because while there was a #10 bare bond wire between the pool rebar, pool handrails, pool pump, jet pump and screen cage enclosure he couldn't find where it was tied to a ground rod. I now need to drive an 8' ground rod and bond the pump to it also.

He did install a device on my water heater that I wired a few months ago.

Oh well
#8 for bonding and no rod required
 

DonL

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#8 for bonding and no rod required


I was reading your mind, O... and the Manual.


As near as I can tell, #8 should be running back to the service feed, where there should be a ground rod.

Another Ground rod bonded properly should not hurt anything. Could even provide better Lightning protection.


Just because the place is old, does not exempt a person from meeting up to date code, on new installs.
 
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JerryR

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Just because the place is old, does not exempt a person from meeting up to date code, on new installs.

I will run #8 solid where ever possible. Unfortunately pool rebar and hand rails that are buried in the concrete would be impossible to tie into so I'll have to use what is there.

I'll run continuous unbroken #8 solid from light control to jet pump to pool pump to heat pump to pool screen cage to ground rod. Then tie existing #10 that comes out from beneath the concrete deck to the same ground rod.

The last time I went trough this (1973) the inspector actually checked resistance between poolside hand rail and screen frame. It was a looooong time ago but it seen to remember he wanted less than 3 ohms. That pool bond was wired with #8.

BTW, the new heater brought up the 69 degree spa water to 102 degrees on a little over an hour.

I was able to successfully tie it into my Jandy Aqualink so I can remotely control all features from inside the house.
 

Norcal01

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Dated thread alert.

It is ignorance that get people to question using 10 AWG on a 60A breaker on HVAC equipment, the reason that it is fine is that the compressor has overload protection & the fuse or circuit breaker is just for short circuit protection, the HVAC manufacturers make it easy, wire it to the minimum allowed on the data plate, & use the maximum allowed fuse or circuit allowed. Home inspectors go crazy over it because of their ignorance too...
 

Speedy Petey

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I will run #8 solid where ever possible. Unfortunately pool rebar and hand rails that are buried in the concrete would be impossible to tie into so I'll have to use what is there.

I'll run continuous unbroken #8 solid from light control to jet pump to pool pump to heat pump to pool screen cage to ground rod. Then tie existing #10 that comes out from beneath the concrete deck to the same ground rod.

The last time I went trough this (1973) the inspector actually checked resistance between poolside hand rail and screen frame. It was a looooong time ago but it seen to remember he wanted less than 3 ohms. That pool bond was wired with #8.

BTW, the new heater brought up the 69 degree spa water to 102 degrees on a little over an hour.

I was able to successfully tie it into my Jandy Aqualink so I can remotely control all features from inside the house.
WHY do you install ground rod for pools. No where ever in the code has this been required, nor is it necessary or helpful.

It is also expressly stated that the #8 bond does NOT have to extend to any panel or ground rod.
 

JerryR

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WHY do you install ground rod for pools. No where ever in the code has this been required, nor is it necessary or helpful.

It is also expressly stated that the #8 bond does NOT have to extend to any panel or ground rod.

I didn't install ground rod. I just ran #8 solid bond tied into existing #8 bond to pump motors, pool rebar, handrails etc.

Florida Power and Light would not install their "on demand" control without a ground rod so I don't get the $3/month credit that they offer if they are able to turn off my pump when demand gets high.
 
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