Convert copper pipes from tub/shower to shower?

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Arnav

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Your clamping drain does not show the top collar. The membrane does not hook out like that and then up. Thin-set is typically closer to 1/8"-1/4" max.

No weep hole shown.

Have you checked out Noble Company's details on the everyday shower pan? Why not do that.

What is the pre-slope over? Concrete or wood? If wood is the opening around the drain supported?


"Your clamping drain does not show the top collar. The membrane does not hook out like that and then up.
No weep hole shown."

Fixed. Hopefully it make more sense now.

"Thin-set is typically closer to 1/8"-1/4" max."
It was a typo. Was suppose to say mortar instead....

"What is the pre-slope over? Concrete or wood? If wood is the opening around the drain supported?"
The pre-slope is over concrete slab. Since this is a bathtab to shower conversation, I entombed the drain in cement to the same level as the slab (I will post pics tomorrow).

"Have you checked out Noble Company's details on the everyday shower pan? Why not do that."
What is that? I googled "Noble everyday shower pan" but came up empty.
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Arnav

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I'm actually happy I included the math in an earlier post. I needed to make some revisions and completely forgot what I did... Hopefully it will help someone else someday as well.

I am using 3/8" rise for ever foot to be within the range allowed by the code (1/4" per foot < slope < 1/2"/foot)

Primary Drain height of the floor: 1" (reason: best practice)

Height of slope at the drain: 1.5" (reason: best practice)

Height of drain off the floor: 3.25" reason: 1" (clamping drain off the floor) + 1.5" (height of slope @ drain) + ~1/8" (thinset) + 5/8" (tiles) = 3.25"

Height of pre-slope @ wall: 2.75" reason: 55.75" (distance from clamp to furthest corner) / 12" per foot * 0.375" rise per foot + 1” (height of drain of floor) = 2.75"

Height of slope @ wall: 4.5” reason: 55.5" (distance from linear drain to wallfurthest corner) / 12 " per foot * 0.375" rise per foot + 2.75 (height of pre-slope) = 4.484" ~ 4.5”

Height of curb required by code: 5.25" reason: 3.25 (height of drain) + 2" (code!) = 5.25"

Actual curb height: 5.75” (2 pavers) + 0.5 (Mortar) + shower liner + ~1/8" (thinset) + 5/8" (tiles) = 5.75

Minimum liner height required by code at wall: 8.75” + (1" nails/screw gap). Reason: 5.75" (Actual height of curb) + 3" (code) = 8.75" + 1" nails/screw gap

My Actual liner height = 9.5” Reason: 0.5” (space between concrete floor and wood) + 2x6 + 2 x4 = 9.5”
 

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Arnav

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ok, so i just realized that I officially made my first mistake. I installed the rough in valve for the shower and its plaster-guard flush with the studs as oppose to the finished wall. Oh well, it made so much sense at the time.... :)
I haven't decided if I'll fix it tomorrow or wait for the trim valve to arrive (i'll order it now) to see if it could still work (but i think it provides 1/4" tolerances not 1.25"...). I know how to fix it, no biggy. I Just wanted to come clean and admit it... :)

It is weird tough. If indeed it is to be installed with the plasterguard flashed with the wall and looking at other's pics, it seems to put the hot water supply line really close to the wall if not touching it. I am thinking to just add two 45 degrees elbows by the valve to push it out.

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Jadnashua

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It's always a good idea, especially when you don't do this every day, to temporarily mock up your wall thickness and install the trim to see where things sit. There can be a big difference between the min/max where it will fit, and where you like it best for aesthetics. For approximation purposes, you can figure about 1/8-3/16" finished thickness of the thinset per layer, depending on what's going on the wall. Smaller tile and a membrane would use less on one side, and thicker tile more, and maybe even more, but if needed, you'd want to go with a medium bed (or as it is called now - LFT -large format tile mortar).
 
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