Help with proper settings for Fleck7000 SXT Softener

[Reach4]

Popped the DLFC, it does indeed say 700. (was upside down).

Getting that identified and fixed has got to be good.

http://www.pentairaqua.com/Files/Kn...r43347-fleck-accessories-parts-list-rev-a.pdf says
61454-000 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#000,BROWN (8" Tank)
61454-00 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#00,VIOLET (9" & 10" Tank)
61454-0 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#0,RED (12" & 13" Tank)
61454-1 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#1,WHITE (14" & 16" Tank)
61454-2 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#2,BLUE (18" Tank)
61454-3 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#3,YELLOW (20" Tank)
61454-4 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#4,GREEN (21" Tank)
61454-5 INJECTOR ASSY,7000,#5,GRAY (24" Tank)

I don't know the implications.

 

[ditttohead]

I am unable to know how your system will work until you get your own water softener hardness test kit (Hach 5B). I can send you one cheap if that would help. If it is set correctly, then it should work just fine.
You have a white injector, the yellow part is a check valve. The white injector is designed for 1 14" or 16" tank. The black buildup is probably iron or manganese. You may want to chemically clean your resin and retest for iron/manganese.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Smilloy]

Thanks Dittohead,
I do already have a test kit, (just not the one you suggest).
The water tests 120ppm according to the instructions that came with the kit.

I decided to do a practical test to see how many GAL the softener would soften before it needed to be regenerated. Right now i am at about 900GAL and still have soft water.

 

[ditttohead]

Many test kits use different test methods, what brand/model number do you have?

The test you are doing is not accurate unless you do it multiple times for moths on end to get an accurate system capacity. Capacity varies with salt dosage, previous unused capacity etc. I am sure some people will not like what I am going to write but...

To get an accurate capacity test based on your salt setting in the method you are using, you would need to allow the system to become completely exhausted. This would take away the unknown factors listed above. Regenerate (assuming you have the correct amount of water in the brine tank and no other variables are introduced) and then see how many gallons you get prior to it becoming exhausted again.

An industry standard, trusted, and well understood test method can also be used with the resin capacity/salt charts to determine the estimated system capacity.

 

[Smilloy]

The Kit that i have is a Taylor K-1770
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/products_kitinfo.asp?&MarketID=-1&KitID=2196

 

[ditttohead]

That is not the right test, that is a calcium hardness test, not total hardness test.

Please get a Hach 5B.

 

[Smilloy]

I will order a Hach 5B online.

Can you explain how to dilute it since we are looking at over 30GPG.

Do you add 2x the amount of hardness regent then count 1 drop = 1 gpg up to 60?
Or do you use half the water?

(or if we are expecting 120gpg 1/4 the water?)

On the Hach website it doesn't have instructions on how to test when over 30 gpg.

I see Hach also has other its...
http://www.hachco.ca/total-hardness-test-kit-model-ha-71a/product?id=14533983914
Doesnt seem to have a max GPG so i assume it would work (just more expensive).

 

[Reach4]

I think you would use half distilled water and half test water for up to 60 grains. I am thinking you would make up a mix of a tablespoon of distilled and a tablespoon of water test. in a clean dry container, and fill the test tube with that. For up to 90 grains, 2 TSB of tablespoons of distilled and a tablespoon of water test.

Then double or triple the result number.

 

[Smilloy]

Hi again guys,
My softener has been working pretty well the past few months, however I am still having a few small problems.

1. My soft water is salty. IE it leaves white residue on the counter (salt, not calcium), and also has a distinct salt taste to it.
I filled up a sink with just soft cold water, and it is.

I really only recall this problem starting a few months back when (when i posted here first).

I set the softener as was suggested earlier in this post, and i am wondering if the B2 (5:00) or RR(10:00) is not set high enough? The only thing that i can think is that brine is not being fully washed off the resin which is causing the salt stains / taste.

 

[Reach4]

Hi again guys,

1. My soft water is salty. IE it leaves white residue on the counter (salt, not calcium), and also has a distinct salt taste to it.
I filled up a sink with just soft cold water, and it is.

Based on https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ettings-for-my-new-7000sxt.60120/#post-446303 I wonder if a longer BD would help.

You know that the water softener doing its job replaces calcium salts and magnesium salts with sodium salts, right? If your idea is correct, then the saltiness would be greater shortly after a regeneration than it would be after a few days. I think a TDS meter might be able to pick up on that in that your suspicion is that you have added salt rather than just the intended displacing salt. So if the TDS falls as time passes after regen, then you might benefit from a change in softener settings.

 

[Smilloy]

I wonder if it is the BD setting.
Will have to check what it is set at when i get home. Originally it was set to 99, and then it was suggested to change to 60 or 90 depending on the colour of the valve. Maybe if I changed it to 60, it isnt having enough time to wash off the resin?.

That is of course assume I am understanding how the BD function works. IE it sucks the brine until brine is empty, then runs fresh water over the resin until the timer expires. If it is 60, maybe i need to go back to 99?

 

[Reach4]

That is of course assume I am understanding how the BD function works. IE it sucks the brine until brine is empty, then runs fresh water over the resin until the timer expires.

That is how it works.

 

[Smilloy]

Just checked the BD.
Was set to 99.
Maybe I need to increase it?
I am running approximately 14 gal of brine per regeneration with 4CF of resin. Perhaps 99 is not enough?

 

[ditttohead]

The 7000 manual has draw rate charts that you can use to properly set the correct brione draw times. Longer brine draw times are generally more efficient, but only to a point.

What is your injector size/ PSI? We can estimate the proper brine draw time based on that. Or you can simply put the system into a regeneration and time how long it takes to draw all of the brine out of the brine tank. Times that by 4 to get the total BD time. This is only an estimate and slight variations may be needed. The fast rinse is not used to rinse salt out of the system, this should be completed in the BD cycle.

As to salt residue/taste. Salt left in the system will have a definite taste that will quickly go away by turning on a faucet in the house if your systems regeneration cycle is not adjusted correctly. Spots, etc are simply a part of TDS. Soft water makes cleaning much easier, but the spotting will still occur.

If you continue to have a "salt" taste in the water after you rinse the system down through a faucet, then your water hardness/softness and other water issues may simply leave that taste in the water. Remember, this is ion exchange, you are trading calcium/magnesium for sodium.

FYI,
#1 injector draws at .35
#2 injector draws at .5 GPM.
#3 draws at .7 GPM

This should help make the math fairly easy.